The great thing about this list is that different experiences are
presented. The choice of which experience the readers wish to
follow is theirs. They are given options that they may not have
considered before.
As the original question-poster of this fascinating exchange, I
would like to agree emphatically with the above. I asked what seemed
to me a fairly simple question, and the answer was yes, no, and
maybe. But I have learned a great deal about the processes,
techniques, lines of thought, and considerations involved. To me,
this falls under the “teach a man to fish” heading. The actual
answer is much less important than the thinking behind it. Plus,
everybody stayed civilized! I am delighted with the results, and
haven’t decided what avenue to follow. I’ll probably inspect the
stone closely, then attempt to solder it, for the experience. Thank
you all!
Although I have been working in gold for over 20 years there is
absolutely NO WAY that I will accept a repair that involves
retipping!
I am, and have always been, terrified of doing it. I hate repairs
anyway and usually shake my head and tell people to take it to a real
jeweler (notice I call myself a goldsmith and sculptor.)
When I see colleagues doing it I’m reminded of being a spectator at
some gruesomely dangerous sport, such as rock climbing or shark
feeding. I just stand there, awestruck and with my heart in my mouth.
No matter that they succeed a thousand times I KNOW that the first
time I try it the diamond will explode, the sapphire will snap in two
and the ruby will fade to a pale pink.
Go to it boys and girls, I’ll just stand back over here and drink my
coffee…
I’ve deliberately stayed away from this thread because I didn’t wish
to appear to be “piling on.” I agree with Don’s statement that if
you know you can do a thing, do it. But don’t expect it to be
something everyone cares to do.
Garnets are my favorites, in all colors, and I’ve dopped and faceted
a large number of them. I’ve never had a problem heating them or
cleaning in an ultrasonic. Still I don’t doubt some might break due
to the same internal stress that can cause some garnets to test
doubly refractive in the polariscope despite their isometric nature.
Some types of inclusions might also cause them to crack due to
internal expansion.
A couple of years ago I decided to try heat-treating garnets to see
if I could lighten their color. I insulated several dark purple cut
stones in a container of casting investment. In a series of tests I
raised the temperature (in slow incremental steps) to 800F. (no
change, no cracks after overnight cooling); then to 1,000F. (same
result); and finally to 1,300F. After cooling, this test showed
cracks in a couple of stones but most survived the heat just fine.
However, the color remained exactly the same. That’s what the books
said would happen with the color, and now I know the books are right.
I wasn’t born in Missouri but I probably should have been.
After that would I take a garnet out of a gold setting before
soldering? Unless it was a cheapie and I could find an exact
replacement quickly, you bet I would!
I have 2 cents to add to this discussion, owning and running a large
trade shop for some years, we have experienced almost every
combination of gem/metals and heat, sometimes on purpose sometimes by
accident. The “rules” that evolved are still working well for us
today.they have never been written down before.
1; there is always the possibility of failure,no procedure can be
100% safe, if you didn’t make the piece your self you may be amazed
at what someone else thought was acceptable.
2; which is more precious, the gem or the mounting? You can "always"
save one by breaking the other.
3; have your work really really clean before heating
4;If soldering work involves inexpensive gems, that are readily
replaceable it is USUALLY in your interest to just procede with your
work, always using care especially with heat up and ALWAYS air cool.
You will be surprised at how many gems will survive, if they all did
your profits/time benefit , if they didn’t at least they’re easier to
remove. Fake emerald birth stones [doublets] will often survive the
retipping but do NOT pickle afterwards Garnets almost always survive 1
or 2 of 10 CZ’s will not natural emeralds will mostly darken [ they
might look better ] amethysts will mostly lighten unless
imitation which mostly will survive cabs are less likely to survive
than faceted large stones are much less likely to survive learn to use
a SMALL flame that can be directed to as little as one prong not
especially heating the gem its holding
5; I now will air cool ALL SOLDERING WORK if it contains any gem at
all yes diamonds too
6; if you want to steam something temp. sensitive hold it in your
fingers , you probably won’t over heat it
7;there must be more “rules” but these are all that come to mind
this early in the morning
Although I have been working in gold for over 20 years there is
absolutely NO WAY that I will accept a repair that involves
retipping!
I’m with you, Tony… but make mine a tea! It may be part curse and
blessing, but I’ve never worked in a retail jewelry establishment,
and have extremely limited repair experience. And most of that was
bad! My general policy as that I decline any repairs that are not of
my work… and they’re few and far between. That’s one reason I don’t
make a lot of rings… I don’t want to spend my time resizing them. I
usually make them to order.
I don’t see the sense in risking the need to replace an expensive
gemstone out of my pocket for the minimal revenue a repair would
bring in. Seems like more hassle and potential risk than its worth.
I’ll gladly refer repair inquiries until the day I have my own laser
welder (wishful thinking again).
The other thing that is a hidden “gotcha” is that a lot of
commercial sterling jewelry is rhodium plated in order to eliminate
the notorious tarnish problem sterling has. Try repairing one of
these things, and you’ll end up with an ugly, bubbly two-tone finish
where the plating burned off. Try explaining that one to your
trusting customer! And I’m sorry… I don’t see soft (non silver)
solder as a viable solution. It doesn’t have the strength, and is
actually corrosive to the silver.
While it is fine if you all want to heat stones that you own I would
think twice (or three or four times) about heating ANY customer’s
stones. You may think they are inexpensive or with minimal value but
that doesn’t mean the customer does. If you want to do this stuff
with your own goods go right ahead but since I have seen everything
you could imagine (let’s not forget you can burn diamonds too)
damaged with improper heating and since there are so many stones that
have been treated in oftentimes unknown ways, you are always taking a
big risk when you heat a customer’s stones–regardless of what past
experiences you may have had.
Daniel R. Spirer, GG
Spirer Somes Jewelers
1794 Massachusetts Ave
Cambridge, MA 02140
617-491-6000 @spirersomes www.spirersomes.com
] amethysts will mostly lighten unless