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Gallery wire fabrication


#1

Gallery wire is that fancy, pierced bezel strop, right?

Well, I’d love to get some made in my own design, so I’m wondering
how it is made. Quite possibly, the tooling would cost too much for
it to make sense to consider, but if anyone can give me insight into
whether this might be feasible, I would appreciate it very much.

Noel


#2

Noel,

Just a thought. Depending upon your design details, you could have a
stamp or punch made and buy standard bezel at the height you prefer.
You could then stamp/punch as you need it.

Regis


#3

term gallery used in jewellery context is derived from "colonnade"
which means a row of columns. Standard bezel can be described and top
cluster connected to base via several supports (columns), which are
called gallery. So gallery is a structure which connect base to gem
carrying surfaces. Most often it is in form of columns, but not
necessarily so.

Gallery wire is a commercial product supplied by refiners, which is
kind of a cheap substitute for gallery in true sense of a word. It
may approximate appearance, but it lacking structural integrity of
handmade gallery.

Leonid Surpin
www.studioarete.com


#4

To my knowledge, I’ve never seen handmade gallery. How is it made?


#5
To my knowledge, I've never seen handmade gallery. How is it made? 

Gallery is just a word describing structure connecting top and bottom
of jewellery constructions. Take a look at preview of Eternity Ring
DVD on benchtube. The sideview structure is a gallery. In case of
Eternity Ring is transitions into prongs. The inner ring becomes a
base. Anything which connects top and bottom is a gallery. As far as
fabrications methods - it can be done by piercing, or by soldering,
or in any way which is appropriate for the design.

Leonid Surpin
www.studioarete.com


#6
To my knowledge, I've never seen handmade gallery. How is it made? 

I think there may be some confusion/cross over of technique/
application. The pre-made gallery wire which I’ve seen sold, seems
to be mainly used as decorative bezel strip and mostly used to set
cabochons. However, as I understand it, the gallery, when talking
about stone settings, is the underneath/supporting structure of a
cluster arrangement - mainly used when setting more than one faceted
stone in a ring (or pendant, eg). Such galleries can be handmade (as
I think Leonid was referring to), or the whole thing can be cast as
one structure.

I don’t think the gallery wire/strip would be structurally sound
enough to be used as a gallery for a cluster of stones.

I’m not sure if I’ve explained what I mean very well, but I think
the term gallery strip is a poor use of a term used for a different
application. If I’m mistaken, I am open to be corrected of course,
as the above is how I’ve interpreted the situation.

Helen
UK


#7
the gallery, when talking about stone settings, is the
underneath/supporting structure of a cluster arrangement - 

Well, as far as it goes, the various people’s discussion saying
Helen’s quote is true. The gallery supports the underbezel, cluster
or not. But that’s as far as it goes - there is a product called
"gallery wire" which is essentially a decorative bezel. The one time
I used it, decades ago, I cut off a piece with four tips, made a
circle out of it and used it for a four prong setting.

That is made by machines something like decorative rolls on a rolling
mill, except they also pierce the metal. Specialty stuff. If you want
that product and that precision then you have no alternative but
tool-and-die work.

Here: http://tinyurl.com/36ken2g

is an example that I made long ago now. Click on “previous” for a
top view of it. Making a bezel strip that’s pierced and carved and
engraved would have to be one of the most frustrating and arduous
tasks imaginable.

The more you pierce it, the flimsier it will get, then you have to
solder it… So don’t do that. Make yourself a bezel of a certain
weight - the weight will be what’s needed after you cut all the scrap
metal away.

Make it, fit it and solder it in place. THEN you mark it off and do
the piercing, filing and decorating…


#8

Others have addressed how gallery wire is made. I can direct you to
a supplier with over 100 gallery wire and silver ribbon choices,
Rashbel in London

http://www.rashbel.com/Products.asp?cat_id=236.

I haven’t ordered fromthem, but find some of the stamped designs to
be nice. Perhaps you can find what you’re looking for.

Jamie


#9

Helen,

A gallery is different to gallery wire or strip.

You are right in that a gallery can be under a setting such as in a
ring similar to a series of baskets but the handmade gallery strip is
used, for instance, to set a cameo. It would start out as a bezel
with the claws then being cut out before setting the stone.

Roger


#10
You are right in that a gallery can be under a setting such as in
a ring similar to a series of baskets but the handmade gallery
strip is used, for instance, to set a cameo. It would start out as
a bezel with the claws then being cut out before setting the stone. 

Ditto!

Just released new DVD. Preview is on Ganoksin Bench Tube. Coronets
are all about gallery making. The great thing about starting gallery
as a bezel, is that such gallery retains complete strength of the
bezel, but only at a fraction of weight.

However, if I would be making earrings, I would construct gallery
from wire. Wire galleries are even lighter and strength is not a
major concern in earrings.

I do not want to beat up on casting, but one of the reason Coronets
are on the endangered species list, so to speak, is that they cannot
be cast. Appearance probably could be reproduced, but not the
strength, unless ring is made very heavy. In this case appearance
would suffer.

Incidentally, the complete ring is made with tip described in my blog
"If you missing blowpipe". It is on Ganoksin blogs or my website,
whatever you prefer. If you wondered about performance and flame
characteristics, you can see it now.

Leonid Surpin
www.studioarete.com


#11

Noel try London firm of Rashbel first, and see if your original
design is not among their hundreds of offerings. they are fairly
fast at shipping to the US! Also you may have rollers produced fairly
inexpensively by Rosenthal’s in Miami Fl- they offer a custom
service for roller production (and case haardening and describe the
finish you wish when and if ordering.I usually order a 6 micron
finish on mine as it’s appropriate for just about anything I do,
except roll printing for which i have diffferent rollers that come
into contact with the brasses I use). Most gallery wire is fine
silver and is very soft - keep that in mind when and if producing
your own.You can also have dies produced that fit in to hand and
arbor presses or hydraulic presses that utilise regular bezel strip
in either .999 or .925, or karated coloured golds…one push of the
handle and my arbor press gives me an 8" length of strip which if the
substrate is on a continuous roll of bezel wire you can produce an
easy bracelet length (mine are in general 7 1/2 inches for
production) or longer if yo don’t trim it to lengthbut allow it to be
pressed from the roll…rer


#12

Hi Roger,

A gallery is different to gallery wire or strip. 

I know that a gallery is different to gallery wire or strip, and if
you read my post again, you’ll see that that’s exactly what I was
saying to the OP. I mentioned it, because it wasn’t clear whether
the OP was talking about “a” gallery, or gallery wire, so I described
the difference. My description of a gallery may not have been the
best, but fortunately Leonid said it better than I did, which cleared
up any confusion others may have had.

Helen
UK