Flashback Arrestors

David, They sold you a set to go on the torch end of the hos.
They will not work on the regulator end of the assy. Most
welding torches use the exact same fittings as the regulator so
the hoses have the same fittings on both ends. This will cause a
problem if check valve designed for the torch end is put on the
regulator end or vice versa. Send it back and have them provide
you with a pair for the regulator end of the assembly.

Jim

@jbin
James Binnion Metal Arts
4701 San Leandro St #18
Oakland, CA 94601
510-436-3552

Dave: did you put the arrestor AFTER the regulator with the
gauges etc.? I don’t see how you could possibly put them on
backwards, there’s an arrow that shows flow direction also. Mine
works fine, though I think it takes a little more pressure for
them to work right. Mine has a check valve in it also. Make sure
you use the red one for fuel and green for oxy, duh. Use teflon
tape on the screw threads too and check with soapy water for
fuel leaks. Those stories scared the shit outa me thats why I
bought these damn things…Dave

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To all ; I’ve been using “Natural Gas” torches with propane as a
fuel for some time now . My intention was to shift over to
natural gas when I finally had a permanent studio/shop
arrangement. I now have that arrangement and I’m wondering what
others on this list have experienced about setting up a gas line
(with respect to Insurance/local inspections, etc.) for their
torches.

In The Boston area, there seems to be a requirement for a
"Licensed Plumber" installed Flash arresting device directly on
the gas line. I have only seen older versions of this device.
They consist of a water-filled column where the incoming gas
bubbles up (the supply line enters below the water line)

through the column and exits , via another line, above the water
line. Envision a Turkish “Hookah” smoking pipe and you pretty
much understand the principle of the device.

Have any of the subscribers encountered difficulty obtaining
insurance or permission from local authorities about setting up
one of these gas lines in a home-based studio,in a
non-commercial zone? Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks, Eben

Teresa, I have used propane, oxygen in my at home shop for 13
years and have had no problems at all. the only complaint from my
wife is the dust from buffing. I notified the fire dept that
there is oxygen, propane, acids and a “B” tank of acetylene on
the premices just in case something does happen. My insurence
agent is a customer and has never said anything about violating
the homeowners policy.Hope this helps. Harold

I tried to use the natural gas in the house, even had the gas
company’s contractor install the necessary line and valves - but
there wasn’t enough presure in the line, less than 1 psi (or what
ever they measure it). So I went to propane - with a 15 gal.?
tank outside and used the line the gas co. had installed. That
worked great and is what we will do in my new studio (under
construction at this point, boy I wish my husband were a
carpenter instead on working on airplanes).

   My home is my workshop, I hope to eventually use the
garage, but for now, it is inside, and I am concerned. I too
would welcome suggestions. Teresa 

In my last studio which was in the basement, my bench sat just
outside the laundry / furnace (gas with a pilot light) room. We
never had any problems except once a regulator diaphragm
developed a leak but that was on the acetylene tank. I think it is
very important to have plenty of ventilation - I used to open
windows when doing a burnout and casting melts, the room had
great cross ventilation.

Hope this helps.
Lorri

  I know I do not want acetylene/air, have read too many posts
about its being "dirty". 

Not quite. Acetylene and oxygen is potentially dirty, and
usually hotter than you need. But for general silversmithing,
the prestolite or smith air/acetylene torches are among the best
you can use. The way those torches work produces a clean, soft,
gentle and nicly hot flame that’s almost ideal for general
silver fabrication, and hot enough (though only barely) for
casting use too.

Oxyacetylene is sometimes useful, especially in the Micro sized
torches, like the smith “little” torch with the smaller tips,
especially for delicate repair or assembly work on gold. and if
the gasses are mixed right, the flame is nice. But it’s hotter
than you need, in a larger general use torch like the meco
midget, or the like. And if you’ve too much or too little
oxygen, then the flame becomes either dirty and full of excess
carbon, or so hot and oxidizing it’ll burn right through your
metal without melting the solder properly…

I too have natural gas and asked about tapping into that.
Basically it may not be legal into the home, and may invalidate
the insurance. 

Depends on local building regulations. In some places it’s
legal, other not. But more to the point, most residential natural
gas lines are at quite low pressure, too low to effectively get
good use out of a torch. Commercial gas lines are pressurized
more, and are often used in jewelry shops. But the ones going
into your home are often at only a few psi. Pretty anaemic…
Check with your local gas company. You’ll generally need above
about 7-8 psi for a torch to work decently.

What you CAN do, if you like this fuel, is to buy bottled
natural gas. Comes in a cylendar same as acetylene or oxygen.
You can use an aceytlene regulator with an adaptor to fit the
different bottle. natural gas is probably the best torch flame
anyway, and is safer to have in the house than propane, since
it’s faster dissipation rate means it isn’t so prone to pool at
floor level building up in concentration if there is a leak.

do remember, if you’re using natural gas or propane, that the
danger of fumes building up is most commonly due to human error.
If you are careful to shut off the gas valve or tank valve when
you are not using the torch, then there is usually very little
chance of a dangerous leak. The fires and accidents you read
about are usually do to pilot lights blowing out (and then
safeties failing to shut of the supply) or more commonly, of
someone accidentally leaving a burner slightly on, or maybe a
faulty appliance. Had the main valve to that appliance been
turned off when not in use, then there’d have been no leak. We
don’t do that with our stoves, of course, but you can reasonably
be expected to do that with whatever torch setup you use. And
while you are there, and using it, you’ll become aware very
quickly of even a minor leak.

Peter Rowe

This flashback issues is quite a concern for my husband ( he
moved me and my tourch out of the house into a workshop just in
case - did’t want me to blow up the house). I have the Presolite
tourch and have recently purchased a check valve for it. From
what I am reading here I am understanding that I now have a
double safety feature. Is this correct?

Thanks
CF

There are standard ones made which screw into the torch end of
the tube and others which screw into the regulator end. As the
threads are left handed on acetylene tubing one has to get
backward threaded arrestors for that side. I would think any
local outlet of a national company which distributes acetylene
would be able to get the ones needed as they are standard size.
Like I said I welded some time before I got into art metal work
and I dislike it. IMHO your husband is right that none of these
fuel gases need to be indoors at all. Georgie

Triple safty feature. One, it’s out of the house. Two, your
checkvalve. Three, the prestolite type, not having an oxygen
line, is almost impossible to get anything more than a “pop”,
usually when you shut down the line. An actual dangerous
flashback with these torches is almost impossible. Normally the
danger occurs with an oxygen/fuel torch, if you create, by
blocking the tip when the oxygen pressure is set higher than the
fuel pressure, a situation where oxygen can be forced back,
against the fuel pressure, into the fuel line, or worse, the
regulator itself. Then, if fuel again starts to flow, it’s
mixed with oxygen in the line or regulator, and if the flame
flashes back, it can cause major accidents. In the prestolite,
with no oxygen supply at all, creating such a situation is kinda
hard to do. Worst you can get is a bit of atmospheric air, which
won’t be sufficiently explosive to do more than “pop”. Won’t hurt
anything.

While the checkvalve is a decent, cheap means to assure absolute
safety in this regard, i’d have to say that if moving you out of
the house posed any sort of inconvenience, then it’s a major case
of overkill. Even a leaking acetylene tank, especially the small
"B" tanks you’re likely useing, isn’t going to create much risk,
since acetylene is a small molecule, the gas is light, and when
it leaks, it dissipates very rapidly, instead of pooling. If the
house has any sort of decent ventilation, you almost can’t create
a dangerous situation. Only if the room is pretty much sealed,
with no air exchange at all, could you build up enough gas to be
dangerous, and a room like that is a real poor choice for a
workshop of any sort anyway.

hope this helps.

Peter Rowe

As a result of similar discussion to this one some months ago, I
installed a separate propane line into the workspace in my
house. I keep the flamable gas tank outside, but the oxygen
inside. I have not yet installed flame arrestors, but plan to
do so. I have a gas cutoff valve inside, with an extended
handle to make it easier to reach, if it should become
necessary. At the time, there were a number of people who said
they had never had a problem. There were other friends here in
Memphis who said the same. My insurance company, and the local
fire marshall said otherwise. This arrangement is acceptable to
both. You might check with your insurance company, and perhaps
the local fire marshall.