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Firescale preventative and flux


Looks like it stripped out the link. Try this one:

I have one of the drum shaped ones that the opening is about 5 inches across but it's only 4 inches deep.


If you are attaching a picture, I can’t see it.


I use a plastic peanut butter jar and a larger tupperware container to avoid breakage and potential fire.


We are off to the mall to see a movie. I will stop at Michaels and check out their storage containers.


Do you want it to be entirely glass?

In the effort to make an air-tight fit, plastic usually surrounds glass tops. They typically will not be air tight and the tops are often difficult to remove from the base.

Here’s a different kind with silicone that I’ve never seen before:

Your canning jar with the spring clip probably has a rubber seal, but I’ve never seen that on a glass storage dish.

I save the largest plastic screw-type lids and the largest glass jars (that often came with metal lids), and occasionally can find a good air-tight fit, but this kind of collecting probably indicates a hoarding disorder.



I am with the Boric Acid and alcohol crowd. I will often use it exclusively as a flux on any piece whether it is just joining ends or working with a wide flat surface. Some times I will use it as a fire coat and once the alcohol is gone I will proceed with Battern’s or any other basic green flux. I have used a Borax and water solution in the past for a fire coat and that has worked well. ( heat the metal until straw color and immerse in Borax/H2O in a pyrex brownie pan with a plastic lid, remove and let dry and then proceed with the work).

I think more than the chemistry is involved in the production and there by the limitation of firescale. Soldering technique must have something to do with it. Too little heat over a long time, too much heat over a little time. The best way to limit it is with experience I think.

All of us have a working method if we have been at this work awhile and they are more or less successful. Most of the time. At the risk of starting a real discussion: I have, at times, planned my work to include and allow some fire scale. Knowing I can’t always defeat it I try and work with it if I can.

Don Meixner


Hi, i used a glass container with a glass top with a rubber in between to hold my alcohol .After time the rubber started to grow this white crust . I thought it would be a good container for the alcohol that i could open and close quickly, but was disappointed when this happened .


I found a bigger canning jar yesterday at Michaels. I also had a 50% off coupon. Just a larger version of the original so that I can fit larger pieces into it. The top closes quickly and is sealed with a spring clip. This keeps the alcohol from evaporating and keeps the top near by if I manage to set the jar on fire. I did that last week. My grandson was impressed…Rob


Borax and water is about as professional as you can get…:-)…!!! All those proprietary commercial preparations available nowadays are useful for people who have not really mastered ‘the art of soldering’… All the extraordinary museum artifacts that everyone drools over used borax and water–or more ‘primitive’ materials…:-)… A lot has to do with the difference in heat sources. No antique/ancient pieces were done with oxy-acetylene or even with oxy-propane. For detailed jewelry work, I believe that the old-fashioned torches and fluxes are still the best…:-)… Simple tools and lots of skill top complicated/expensive tools and limited skills…

Janet in Jerusalem