Looks like it stripped out the link. Try this one:
I have one of the drum shaped ones that the opening is about 5 inches across but it's only 4 inches deep.
Looks like it stripped out the link. Try this one:
I have one of the drum shaped ones that the opening is about 5 inches across but it's only 4 inches deep.
If you are attaching a picture, I canāt see it.
I use a plastic peanut butter jar and a larger tupperware container to avoid breakage and potential fire.
We are off to the mall to see a movie. I will stop at Michaels and check out their storage containers.
Do you want it to be entirely glass?
In the effort to make an air-tight fit, plastic usually surrounds glass tops. They typically will not be air tight and the tops are often difficult to remove from the base.
Hereās a different kind with silicone that Iāve never seen before: https://www.pyrexware.com/ultimate-4-cup-round-storage-dish-white/1117770.html#start=2
Your canning jar with the spring clip probably has a rubber seal, but Iāve never seen that on a glass storage dish.
I save the largest plastic screw-type lids and the largest glass jars (that often came with metal lids), and occasionally can find a good air-tight fit, but this kind of collecting probably indicates a hoarding disorder.
Greetings,
I am with the Boric Acid and alcohol crowd. I will often use it exclusively as a flux on any piece whether it is just joining ends or working with a wide flat surface. Some times I will use it as a fire coat and once the alcohol is gone I will proceed with Batternās or any other basic green flux. I have used a Borax and water solution in the past for a fire coat and that has worked well. ( heat the metal until straw color and immerse in Borax/H2O in a pyrex brownie pan with a plastic lid, remove and let dry and then proceed with the work).
I think more than the chemistry is involved in the production and there by the limitation of firescale. Soldering technique must have something to do with it. Too little heat over a long time, too much heat over a little time. The best way to limit it is with experience I think.
All of us have a working method if we have been at this work awhile and they are more or less successful. Most of the time. At the risk of starting a real discussion: I have, at times, planned my work to include and allow some fire scale. Knowing I canāt always defeat it I try and work with it if I can.
Don Meixner
Hi, i used a glass container with a glass top with a rubber in between to hold my alcohol .After time the rubber started to grow this white crust . I thought it would be a good container for the alcohol that i could open and close quickly, but was disappointed when this happened .
I found a bigger canning jar yesterday at Michaels. I also had a 50% off coupon. Just a larger version of the original so that I can fit larger pieces into it. The top closes quickly and is sealed with a spring clip. This keeps the alcohol from evaporating and keeps the top near by if I manage to set the jar on fire. I did that last week. My grandson was impressedā¦Rob
Borax and water is about as professional as you can getā¦:-)ā¦!!! All those proprietary commercial preparations available nowadays are useful for people who have not really mastered āthe art of solderingā⦠All the extraordinary museum artifacts that everyone drools over used borax and waterāor more āprimitiveā materialsā¦:-)⦠A lot has to do with the difference in heat sources. No antique/ancient pieces were done with oxy-acetylene or even with oxy-propane. For detailed jewelry work, I believe that the old-fashioned torches and fluxes are still the bestā¦:-)⦠Simple tools and lots of skill top complicated/expensive tools and limited skillsā¦
Janet in Jerusalem