Fabricating from scratch

When I asked the original question, I was wondering what the various
positions were. I am well aware of the sensitivities around “jewelry
making”, resistance to new, etc.

I was quite pleased with the responses, and now want to carry it a
couple of steps further.

I plan on splitting this Fabrication question into two other
threads. Torches and Rolling Mills.

More to follow.
Hugs and thanks,
Terrie

Rolling Mills, how many have one, how many want one, and how many
actually use them beyond simply rolling sheet and wire

I was so happy to read John Donivan’s comments on how he uses his
Rolling Mill to create wonderful curved shapes.

To me, the rolling mill is such a wonderful tool, with so very many
uses. A long time ago,well before I met Jay Whaley, I was at the
Holidome, in Tucson, during the February madness, and there bought
one. Very shortly thereafter, same trip, same place, I first met
Kenneth Singh, at his 46th St. Jewelry Supply booth. I immediately
felt I had a friend, and that has long been a reality.

We began to speak about Rolling Mills, and Ken showed me some
bracelet rollers he had recently made. I was so impressed, and
immediately wanted some. I was upfront about the mill I had just
purchased. Ken suggested I show it to him to determine if his
rollers would fit, sadly, they did not. My big loss, the initial cost
was similar, I just had not met Ken early enough. My mill is still in
its original box, all greased, and somewhere in the bowels of my
garage.

I began to take classes at UCSD, and shortly after, with Jay Whaley.
There are two wonderful rolling mills in the jewelry studio at UCSD,
and Jay has them both in continual use. We use every inch of those
mills, and frequently change the side rollers from simple half
rounds to patterned, of a variety of sizes. Patterning and embossing,
upsetting, you name it, we have tried it.

Now at Whaley Studios, with 3 rolling mills in residence, even more
wonderful uses develop. Jay has created 2 DVD’s specifically using
the Rolling Mill in unusual ways. Both of these for sale DVD’s have
had wonderful feedback reviews, and just this week we received photos
from an early buyer, who took the ring DVD and made a bracelet. Looks
great, and makes us very happy to see this thinking outside the box.

Jay regularly holds Rolling Mill Workshops here in San Diego, and
they are well attended, and very much appreciated. We actually went
live with one.

So please chime in and let us all here in Orchidland know what
wonderful things you are doing with your rolling mill, and ask for
suggestions or ideas.

Hugs and thanks,
Terrie
Jay Whaley’s Studio Assistant

I wonder among the many here on Orchid, what the statistical
balance is between fabricating from scratch vs fabricating using
purchased sheet and wire. 

I was lucky to get a job as a Benchworker in Hinsdale, il. Was taught
by an old world goldsmith. Moving to Beautiful East TN. Four yrs.
Later. By chance I got a job working for a Jeweler who was also a
manufacturer, (gold creations) Got to do it all, Wouldn’t trade the
fourteen yrs (Good and bad) for anything–Tho when Aug. Rolled
around as any Benchworker knows From then til Jan.

The long hrs. Swollen hands, custom orders. Etc. No matter whats in
stock, There is still the know how of making your own. Like A. C. The
rolling mill is a favorite. Retired now and planing on doing my own
thing.

Leona in beautiful east tn. who still misses chicago. i really enjoy
reading your posts (elaine luther) and all the extra perks, of
course every one elses! Happened to look at the SAUL BELL
awards----Noticed there isn’t a Silver Second place winner, Does
anyone know why?

Jay,

I could not agree more, and think about it, I sell stock! I believe
the best jewelers have the most options to proceed.

Really I want to talk about how cool your talk radio blog is! This
looks to be a wonderful media to get these concepts out to the trade.
I happen to think there is great potential for outreach from jewelry
artists designers etc to the public.

If we provide a good look into our work and how our jewelry is made,
we may well spark interest among the smarter consumers. The ones that
might not be impressed by another tennis bracelet from a discount or
online jeweler.

Sincerely,
Daniel Ballard

Terrie - a link to where we can buy Jay’s CD’s please?

I lucked into a wonderful very lightly used rolling mill from
someone on this list a few years ago. At the time I bought it I had
never even seen one, just read about what you could do with one, and
knew I had to have it. I have been passionate about texture in all of
the media I have worked in over the last 30+ years, so I bought mine
with texturing in mind, not rolling sheet and wire.

So far that is all I use it for - textures. I absolutely love what I
can do with it, and am constantly exploring new ways to transfer
texture to my metals. As I am also a fiber artist, my rather
excessive collection of fabrics, lace, and ribbon are finding new
uses texturing metal. I also scrapbook, and want to use some of those
techniques to create patterns in heavy paper to run through the mill
also.

An interesting side effect that I had not anticipated is the lovely
textures that go onto the card stock I use in my rolling mill
“sandwich”. So that I’m simultaneously texturing the metal and the
paper…very cool.

Beth Wicker
Three Cats and a Dog Design Studio

http://bethwicker.ganoksin.com/blogs/

I melt my own alloys and pour ingots into an open mould or closed
mould as needed. With some experience the risk is minimal as long as
the results are noted and acted upon. I can get a good ingot from
lemel.

All ingots whether purchased as 4x4mm bar or my own are processed in
the mill to whatever I need.

If I want 0.5mm wire, or 0.8mm sheet the rolling mill is essential.
Do you carry a stock of various sheets and wires, or form them as
needed? I find that the rolling mill will replace days of ordering
delay and mountains of stock in hand.

If I need some 6"x 6" silver sheet then I will buy that ready formed
because my mill cannot do that. For general fabrification and
repairs the mill gives me all carats and all colours in whatever
size I need.

Alastair

I have a Meco Midget torch. I bought it because I learned to use it
in school. It has served me well, and is capable of melting the small
amounts I need for ingots or alloy.

As far as rolling mill, I bought a Durston model Mini C 100 4 a few
years back. The flat portion has served me well in rolling various
pieces of metal. I’ll soon start using it to roll patterns into
sheet stock. The 4 wire grooves are a disappointment. Had I more
money at the time I’d not have purchased it because I knew 4 grooves
made for a steep rolling curve. The first grooves appear to be
machined at an included angle greater than 90 degrees. Even when the
ingot is rolled down to having the rollers nearly in contact there
are 12 faces to the wire, 4 narrow from the bottom of the roller
grooves, and each broad face having 2 faces of equal width the length
of the piece (I rotate the ingot as I roll it). When I go to the next
smaller groove (#2 for the sake of discussion) the grooves in each
roller appear to be cut at a bit less than an included angle of 90
degrees. Each broad face, which should be flat, has cuts where the
shoulders of the rollers cut into the face. This cutting action does
not happen with roller grooves #1, #3, or #4. Unfortunately multiple
calls to both the supplier and the manufacturer has been to naught
since I can’t seem to get anyone to understand the problem, or they
don’t believe it could have been manufactured improperly. Now that I
live in Las Vegas I’m considering a trip to the supplier and let them
see the problem first hand. Seeing is believing, right??

Mike DeBurgh, GJG
Henderson, NV

I’m a little behind here, I’m out of town for 2 weeks. I use fine
silver wire for plique-a-jour enamel and I find it more productive if
I melt down wire scraps, create an ingot and roll it out through the
rolling mill and then draw my wire. I use many different shapes and
thicknesses of wire.

Jennifer Friedman
www.jenniferfriedmanstudio.com

Mike,

I am forwarding your message to Jay Whaley. I know he will respond.
I am at home today, and will not see him until Monday.

Now, interesting things have happened when the metal rolling sort of
shifted, or spread across grooves. All of a sudden, there is a new
design, often far more interesting than the expected one. I have
seen these turned into bracelets and rings. Serendipity.

I have intentionally placed sheet across the grooves, at times, even
patterned sheet. I love the experimentation. Hey, don’t love it,
torch it and try again.

Freedom to imagine and experiment is great.

Hugs,
Terrie
Jay Whaley’s Studio Assistant

Beth,

Once you see Jay’s videos, you will love your rolling mill even
more. They are on the first page of Jay’s whaleyworkshops.com web
site. At the bottom of the page is the ability to save on shipping by
ordering both at once.

Now to texturing, the potential is unlimited, and I have long used
old lace to pattern. Others should be aware that rolling old lace
will effectively destroy the lace, so do not use something precious.

I haunt the 99 cent stores, and there find hand crochet doilies from
China, as well as heavily patterned table runners, etc. Of course I
do the same at thrift shops. I experiment with all of it. Try
grosgrain and rickrack as well. Were you to look into my locker, you
will see tons of texturing materials, commercial and found. I love
the patterned brass sheets from Metalliferous.

I participate in an online Silver Group, primarily collectors, and
there defining hallmarks to determine origin and value is important.
I think a subtle way of creating an identity for your work, would be
to create an embedded logo of sorts. Say, for all your bezels create
an identifiable mark, perhaps your initials back to back in a
design. Use the same symbols on bails, backings, rings. So when
someone picks up a piece of yours, they can see something specific
and sat, “this is Beth Wicker’s work.”

You mention card stock, OK try some combination of your initials,
cut them out of stock, and glue them onto a strip of stock in a
design pattern, just the size to emboss a bezel, and roll that onto
bezel wire. Voila, personalized bezel stock.

I’m having fun thinking out loud here.

Other textures I have used, and this is me, I take the mesh that
some fruits come wrapped in, and randomly wrap a piece of metal, top
and bottom in it. Yes it bunches up and moves around, but I have used
it all and stretch it to make certain all of the metal is impressed.
I guarantee you, no one can exactly duplicate it.

I love to wrap my metals into the materials and emboss top and
bottom, not necessarily with Jay’s approval, but it works for me,
and I prefer texture on all sides. Sure looks great when “antiqued.”

Beth, I now know that Jay Whaley on DVD is every bit as effective as
face to face, from testimonials received.

Hugs,
Terrie
Yes, Jay Whaley’s Studio Assistant

Beth,

Check out whaleyworkshops.com You can buy either of the first two
DVD’s on using the rolling mill to create a bangle bracelet or a
roller printed ring. Both these projects are made from poured
ingots.

Jay