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Experience With Ceram-it Bubbling


#1

I recently tried to use a product called Ceram-It to enamel an inlay
in a ring that was about .75mm deep. I did it in layers to try and
avoid the air bubbles I was getting while curing in the oven. I
tried it again and still got air bubbles. Any suggestions on how to
do this without getting bubbles in the material would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Holly


#2

If you search the archives you’ll probably find lots of help, but
I’d reccomended lowering the tempterature, and cooking for a longer
time frame making sure there isn’t a fan


#3

After repeated problems with the same thing, on this last repair I
just let it cure at room temp for a few days. No bubbles.


#4

Holly,

You have to be very careful not to get air in when you mix it with
the hardener. Sometimes when you do it in layers, and you can still
use the original mix, it will thicken before you reapply it. Air
tends to get trapped easier in the thicker mix.


#5

I bought the sample set earlier this year and could not easily get
it to behave. The only way I got something remotely decent was to cure
it at room temperature, which could take several days. In fact, it
frustrated me so much, that I ended up trying torch fired enamels
instead, which I’ve had far more success with.

Jakob


#6

Thanks for the reply Jakob. I’m going to try the air cure method as
that is what most people do. I’m not sure about how to work the torch
fired enamels and hope this one instance doesn’t take me that far.
However, would be fun to play with on a rainy day. Thanks again!

Holly


#7

Jakob,

Where did you find on torch firing enamels?

Thanks,
Bobbie


#8

Hi Holly;

Any suggestions on how to do this without getting bubbles in the
material would be appreciated. 

Skip the oven, at least in the beginning. These materials will cure
without heat, it just takes longer, like overnight. Then you can
toughen them up with a little time in the oven at the suggested
curing temperature. Just mix them up, put them in, one heavy layer is
fine. They’ll be hard the next morning, and you can give them a
shorter curing time with heat to make sure they’re completely cured.
I do this with Durenamel and Ceramit. I went through what you’re
trying, even trying vacuum. Then one day I got taken away from a
project and forgot to put it in the oven. The next day I discovered
it was hardened, without bubbles! This is one of those little secrets
it almost feels too good to share, except I’m getting old, so I am
more prone to betray the advantages we veterans hold close to our
vests. Want another? You can successfully mix up smaller amounts of
these resins without having to weight them out precisely, just use
your best guess as to volume. If you’re way off, it won’t work, but
if you just need to touch up a chip in the enamel work on an antique
piece, you can get away with it, the stuff is more forgiving than
you’d expect. I work with the stuff like a painter would on a
palette, mixing to get just the right color for a little touch up on
some piece of junk. Busted turquoise cab and the customer doesn’t
want to spring for a new one? No problem, match the color a little
darker and mix in a little chalk for consistency. Missing chunk of
an old pocket watch dial? Might still see it, but it’s improved.
Chipped onyx? Nah, that won’t work well. Should have seen the job I
did on a large broken piece of pottery, man, I was amazed myself.
What am I doing fixing pottery? I do “estate” work. Translation:
fixing crap that dealers don’t want to let go of. If they pay for it,
I don’t care. Guess that’s one use for these fine arts degrees I’m
still paying for.

David L. Huffman