Exactly was is handmade?

Jewelry Discussion
21 
The phrase "handmade by me" grates on my ears. I can't tell you the
grammatical reason, and I understand the meaning, but something
like "I make jewelry by hand" sounds better to my ears.

I like “handmade by me” partly because it’s unusual phrasing. In
advertising you want to use things that are slightly out of place
because they are more memorable. If things are too correct, too
vanilla, nobody remembers them because they are boring. When I hear
“handmade by me” I sort of crack a smile and think that artist would
be approachable and likeable, in addition to hand making their own
work. I’d remember them because of that. I vote that you stick with
it!

Mark

22

A surgeon operates on you to cure you of your ills. Nobody comes out
of surgery feeling thankful to the tools. It is the knowledge skill
and talent of the surgeon that we are seeking. A chef creates
wonderful meals, but we don’t give the tools used in the process the
credit. EVERYONE uses tools. If you hand your jewelry tools to a
Ballerina, she can’t create anything with them. The phrase “Tool
made” grates on my ears.

23

Glad you posted the question Pat. All long running forums seem to
repeatedly cycle through the same questions because those are the
topics that interest forum members. It’s a bit selfish of the old
timers on the forum (I include myself in the old timers club) to
complain about an old topic coming up again. A healthy forum will
always have new people posting questions that have been discussed
before. There is no harm in that, it’s as it should be.

Mark

24

I think casting can be considered handmade in small productions you
do yourself. I do my own casting…specifically casting filigree. I
think that can also go for people who carve waxes by hand, then cast
one-of-a-kind pieces from these waxes. Granted, I pump out the waxes
with molds etc…(I also made the originals, the molds etc)but I do
manually control every step of it, incl. occasionally altering each
piece, adding settings, stone, pearl/bead accents, or even sometimes
altering the design, polishing etc. I don’t send my work out to a big
automated casting production only to get it back and assemble it.
It’s a bit unclear where to draw the line, but I think, as long as
you are doing the process yourself, limited production, it should be
considered like any other ‘tool’ that helps you create your jewelry.

Jeanne
www.jeannius.com

25 
And yet, interestingly, Wanaree Tanner has worked out how to get a
computer controlled cutting machine to cut unfired metal clay!

Really I don’t get the point of that? CIA

26

Robin,

It would seem to me that anything beaded would be legally acceptable
under the term hand crafted or hand assembled, unless you make your
own beads. Hand assembled doesn’t sound as inticing in a sale so
hand crafted would be my choice.

Nel

27

Dear Charles: As a beader, the way I understand FTC is that unless I
am incorporating gemstones into my work, they do not apply to me.
When I use any gemstone, I have to be honest about the treatment. Is
it stabilized, dyed, or synthetic. The use of beads and metal
components do not seem to have a “standard trade” to follow. If there
is any monitor system (besides conscience) maybe someone here will
know. I realize that on Etsy the use of Handmade is grossly misused,
and I am probably one of the worst. Handmade is a word that is highly
googled on searches. So I guess I should start using handcrafted
instead. Blessings pat

28

Dear Robin, my interpretation of the FTC, as a beader I am only
required to know the FTC trade guidelines if i use Now
simple agate puts me into their guidelines. Is it dyed, is it
altered, is it stabalized, is it synthetic? So as a beader I am at
the mercy of the wholesaler. I have an issue with a neighbor. He had
a shop and said there was no such thing as hematite in commercial
sales. I buy hematite from a reputable seller. I have to trust my
seller, and I do. But there are so many people that say there is no
such thing as real hematite. Only hemalite. Now if that is true, the
person who sells it is in trouble with FTC for falsifying hematite.
In turn i am also in trouble because i have to follow the FTC rules.
What it boils down to is that I have to trust my seller than I do
the people that say there is not such thing as real hematite on the
market. As a back up I have done scratch tests…yes it is red…
and the wear test. After a year of wearing daily, my hematite shines
more and my hemalite is dull grey.

A lot to think of as a beader. Hope this answers your question,
blessings pat

29

My own feeling is that it is individual jewelery person vs coming
off an assembly line. It’s got a huge grey area. Barbara, on another
hot day on the island when the new fox came and screamed at the cat
to “get off my property, cat!”

30 
It would seem to me that anything beaded would be legally
acceptable under the term hand crafted or hand assembled, unless
you make your own beads. Hand assembled doesn't sound as inticing
in a sale so hand crafted would be my choice.

Hand Crafted implies hand made and unless one made the beads from
sheet and wire in a fashion that fits the hand made definitions I
would suggest avoiding that description.

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts

31

If it comes down to what is said on Etsy, I would far rather
challenge the use of the words gold and silver than the word
handmade. If it is gold colour, say so. If it is plated, say so.
Surely it would be more truth in advertising. Barbara on a night on
the island when the foxes are finally quiet. On the island, the
mighty island, the foxes sleep tonight…

32 
As a beader, the way I understand FTC is that unless I am
incorporating gemstones into my work, they do not apply to me.

This is incorrect if you make jewelry of precious metals they apply
to you.

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts

33

If you make or sell in the United States any of the following,
jewelry(or anything for that matter) made from precious metals or
jewelry with gemstones or anything made from from pewter. You are
subject to the rules put forward by the FTC in the Guides for the
Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries

A7 23.0 Scope and application. 

(a) These guides apply to jewelry industry products, which
include, but are not limited to, the following: gemstones and
their laboratory-created and imitation substitutes; natural and
cultured pearls and their imitations; and metallic watch bands
not permanently attached to watches.1 These guides also apply to
articles, including optical frames, pens and pencils, flatware,
and hollowware, fabricated from precious metals (gold, silver
and platinum group metals), precious metal alloys, and their
imitations. These guides also apply to all articles made from
pewter. For the purposes of these guides, all articles covered
by these guides are defined as "industry products." 

(b) These guides apply to persons, partnerships, or
corporations, at every level of the trade (including but not
limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers) engaged in
the business of offering for sale, selling, or distributing
industry products. 

Note to paragraph (b): To prevent consumer deception, persons,
partnerships, or corporations in the business of appraising,
identifying, or grading industry products should utilize the
terminology and standards set forth in the guides. 

(c) These guides apply to claims and representations about
industry products included in labeling, advertising, promotional
materials, and all other forms of marketing, whether asserted
directly or by implication, through words, symbols, emblems,
logos, illustrations, depictions, product brand names, or
through any other means.

So beaders or anyone else who makes jewelry or other items from
these materials is included, get over it and deal with the issues
involved.

A7 23.3 Misuse of the terms "hand-made," "hand-polished," etc. 

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-made or
hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such
product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were
accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape,
design, and finish of each part of each individual product. 

Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, "raw materials" include
bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been
cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts,
or blanks. 

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-forged,
hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been
otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was
accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and
effect of such operation on each part of each individual
product.

It is very clear that if you did not start out with sheet, strip,
wire etc. and make every last bit of the item by “manually-controlled
methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction,
shape, design, and finish” it is not hand made. No ear posts, no
clasps, no beads, no settings purchased and added to the item, none
nada,zip. You may not like this, you may feel it violates your
artistic self image or you may just want to quibble about it. Either
get over it or go lobby the FTC to change it to suit your taste. but
please do not argue it here. The links to the Guides have been posted
go read them. If you cannot understand the language in the Guides or
have a question about interpretation contact the Jewelers Vigilance
Committee, they have lawyers that interact with the FTC and often can
offer clarification. At least you can talk to someone there unlike
the FTC. Go to the JVC website and download their helpful
interpretations of the Guides.

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts

34

One major thing that many people misinterpret is that the issue of
labeling one’s work as handmade or handcrafted is not a matter of
one’s opinion, or feeling, or understanding, or interpretation. It is
a matter of an accurate description according to the guidelines, as
decided by the FTC, whether one agrees with them or not.

Obviously, work that includes a purchased component such as a finding
or setting or mounting, or a pre-fab part such as a clasp, is not
entirely handmade. Calling something what it is not is still a
misrepresentation, regardless of whether it is well intentioned or
accompanied by an explanation.

Whether one feels that carving wax is hand working or not, casting
jewelry is not hand making, it is making the cast reproduction of a
handmade model.

For those who want to educate the viewer about the work that goes
into creating their jewelry - describe the processes and materials
and skills used and the manner in which the object is accomplished,
accurately. If it took 12 hours to carve or sculpt a wax, go ahead
and mention that, but dont call the finished piece of jewelry
handmade, because it simply doesnt meet the criteria for that
designation.

If something is assembled from parts and components that were not
themselves made by hand, the finished object is not hand made, so
dont call it hand made or hand crafted, unless it actually has been.

It isn’t at all complicated or vague or fuzzy or subject to
individual interpretation. It isnt about anyone’s opinion, it’s the
FTC regulation.

MDS
http://www.michaelsturlinstudio.com

35

Hi Pat,

As a beader, the way I understand FTC is that unless I am
incorporating gemstones into my work, they do not apply to me. When
I use any gemstone, I have to be honest about the treatment. Is it
stabilized, dyed, or synthetic. The use of beads and metal
components do not seem to have a "standard trade" to follow. If
there is any monitor system (besides conscience) maybe someone here
will know. I realize that on Etsy the use of Handmade is grossly
misused, and I am probably one of the worst. Handmade is a word
that is highly googled on searches. So I guess I should start using
handcrafted instead.

I’m external to the American system of laws, and am subject to
Australian laws and guidelines, but the title of section 23 is :-

“Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries”

You make beaded jewellery, so I think you may come under the section
due to the sections title.

The main problem I see with these laws is that they can be easily
bent, in your favor or against you.

I think the term “hand made” isn’t really necessary if you are
selling jewellery of any kind, either the customer likes your work or
doesn’t.

Regards Charles A.

36

Handmade is as the word implies…hand made. So casting is not hand
made and thus cannot be considered so.

37 
And yet, interestingly, Wanaree Tanner has worked out how to get a
computer controlled cutting machine to cut unfired metal clay!

Really I don’t get the point of that? CIA

I’m thinking the person is trying to say that Wannaree Tanner has
computers do her work, so it can’t be considered “hand made.” Not
sure if the person is disparaging Wannaree, or as some more
traditional jewelry makers still do just disparaging on working with
metal clay as a whole. I’ve truthfully had jewelers tell me my work
wasn’t “real” jewelry because it was made with metal clay. But when I
tell them I soldered this and that on the piece, they say, “oh, I
guess it’s real now.” :confused: But if the person who made the original
statement meant something different, then I’m sorry if my comments
seem a little tough. I do understand that it’s hard to convey true
intent and impression on the internet.

Wannaree does use a Silhouette Cameo machine
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep7zc0

to cut out some of her intricate her bezel wire, but I think that’s
no different than someone hand fabricating a piece using decorative,
pre-cut gallery wire for a bezel. And you would still call that hand
made, wouldn’t you? The big difference is that Wannaree also made
the original design, unlike with most gallery wire. She didn’t just
order it from a jewelry supplier. Sometimes she uses it for more
basic designs where she wraps it around a stone with a backing
(which she always decorates to the hilt), but quite often it’s just
an embellishment in something she’s obviously worked on
painstakingly BY HAND for hours and hours on end. Tell me there’s
not a lot of hand work in this!

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep7zc1

I must confess that I am biased as I greatly admire Wannaree’s work
and like to work with metal clay myself.

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep7zc2

And while I don’t make my own chains (it’s just not my interest), I
do hand carve everything I make except for using bezel wire, jump
rings, and some tubing or sheet metal. But I honestly don’t think
that makes it any more - or less (for those who hate metal clay)
“hand made” jewelry than that by someone who carves a wax and casts
it.

There might be a specific legal definition for “hand made” jewelry,
but most people would think that basically, if you’re doing a lot of
work by hand that can’t be automated (and in my mind, that includes
using your old centrifugal caster, etc.), then it’s “hand made.”
Now, if you’re asking what makes it true “art,” then that’s a whole
other ball of wax. I originally come from the studio art world, and
I can tell you, “what is art” will be debated fruitlessly forever.
And I think that’s the same for “art” jewelry. Even though I’m not
really interested in CAD/CAM myself, I believe someone with great
jewelry skills and design talent can spend a lot of time designing
something that is completely made through CAD/CAM, and it can be
great art. And someone else without skills or talent can completely
form and fabricate something by hand and call it “art jewelry,” but
it’s pure schlock. We’ve all seen a lot of that. You can also have
some factory churning out 20,000+ of the same old machine-made
design. You look at it and feel, “ehh, whatever.” There will always
be something missing in that, and people can tell. I think that’s
the part of “hand made,” “hand designed,” - the art of the
individual that will always matter.

Eleanor Phillips
http://www.eleanorphillipsjewelry.com

38

Here is the exact wording by the Federal Trade Commission.

A7 23.3 Misuse of the terms "hand-made," "hand-polished," etc. 

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-made or
hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such
product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were
accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape,
design, and finish of each part of each individual product. 

Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, "raw materials" include
bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been
cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts,
or blanks. 

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-forged,
hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been
otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was
accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and
effect of such operation on each part of each individual
product.

Hope that sets the record straight.
thanks
Jurgen Maerz
Jewelry Industry Consulting LLC

39

For Americans, the FTC guidelines are being revised this year. The
FTC has already issued a series of questions for the jewelry
community to comment on possible changes and additions to the guides
(i.e. silver filled wire)

John

40

I have a retail store. In 22 years I have never said to a customer
that my work or the work of the 10 artists i carry was handmade.

I think the definition for handmade in relationship to jewelry is
that you made parts and assemble them. Personally, I like the
definition that serves my purposes without regard to any facts.

I do custom work, both cast, fabricated, or cast and fabricated.

What carries more weight is telling them I made it, or that it is
the work of a local artist.

The customer does not care how I am going to make a custom piece. If
I educate them as to how it is made, that adds value in the customers
experience of having the piece made. No one has cared if I used
casting or fabrication .

Seems that people want to stretch words and concepts to become so
broad that it becomes meaningless.

If you think stringing beads and PMC objects qualifiy as handmade, I
think there is a pretty clear sign that the word is meaningless. If
you string beads, the handmade part was possibly done is china.
Perhaps there should be a word fingermade for assembled from
purchased manufactured parts.

If you are trying to figure out how to identify what to call your
work, perhaps it is more important to be more aware of what the
connection the customer appreciates.

If you want to impress your customer, impress them with good design
and quality workmanship.

Richard Hart G.G.
Denver, Co.