Dear Kristin: with regard to epoxy clarity: I have had good results by
doing the following. First, use the clearest (least amber in color)
epoxy available, for example, Hughes Epoxy 330. (Don’t use the
5-minute kind.) This has about a 20-minute “open time.” Allow the
mixed epoxy to stand for about 5 minutes before applying. A certain
number of bubbles will come forth. Remix (slowly) again before
applying, to force the minute bubbles out. I use a pallette knife,
with a squooshing motion. Make sure pieces to be glued are carefully
cleaned and degreased: alcohol is fine. Make certain that the room
where you are doing the gluing has a low humidity. This is very
important! Excess humidity will cloud the glue. Keep a humidity
meter in your studio. If it’s consistently humid, you need a
dehumidifier. If the humidity is high, accept that you cannot glue
that day; have everything set up and ready so you can proceed on a
day of low humidity. I used to do a lot of gluing. I could pretty
much assume that in the summer in the Midwest of the US, I could not
glue all summer. When glued, place your pieces under a swing-arm
lamp, pulling light down to a few inches above, to provide gentle
heat. Make sure there’s nothing meltable nearby. Make sure nothing
can shift or slide out of position. Leave there for 2-3 hours, until
firmly set. Test with a needle or tweezer, dig into the glue. It
should be rock hard. If there is any give at all, it’s not done yet.
Do not wrap, cover, or enclose newly glued pieces for 2 days. They
will still be outgassing. If something is misglued, and you have to
get something out, use Attack solvent.
Good luck.
Lin Lahlum