Enameling blank

Jewelry Discussion
1

Margaret Seeler suggests that each enameling blank should have a
1/32-inch flange around it. She’s the only one I’ve seen mention
this. I’d appreciate the comments from some enamelers who are making
enameled cabochons to subsequently set in jewelry.

J. S. Ellington
432-557-8785
http://www.jsellington.com

2 
Margaret Seeler suggests that each enameling blank should have a
1/32-inch flange around it.

I regularly make my own cabs, never have left any kind of flange on
it…I’ll have to go check her books to see it. I normally texture
the face of the fine silver to be enameled and then hydraulic press
it and apply enamel. I’ve never had any problems in setting, no
cracking as long as I am gentle in rolling the bezel over…although
I did crack one once and have to refire to heal the crack.

Donna in VA

3

Thanks for your reply, Donna. You mentioned refiring to heal a
crack. At this point, I am still studying and everything I have read
says that once a crack appears that it can never be repaired. Can you
elaborate on your efforts/successes with repairing cracks.

J. S. (Sue) Ellington
http://www.jsellington.com

4 
I have read that once a crack appears that it can never be
repaired. Can you elaborate on your efforts/successes with
repairing cracks.

I often found that on the back side of the plate, the counter enamel
was thinner and the crack formed on the front in that same area.
This was especially true of when I used liquid counter enamel, more
difficult to get it all brushed on evenly. I would put more counter
enamel in that area and then refire. It usually healed the crack and
it didn’t come back. I’ve had students drop enameled pieces and
crack them, did the same proceedure and it worked. I have had some
cloisonne crack (truth is I dropped it on cement) and chipped off a
corner. Sometimes with all transparents, it’s more difficult to get
the crack to go away but usually with more counter enamel in that
area the problem is cured.

Donna in VA…enameling for 35 years now!