Emerald Stone Setting Problem

I am having a problem solving this setting problem. I do not even know where to begin. Can anyone out there tell me how to tighten these emerald stones?

Gary Mi

lls

jewelrymetalsmith@gmail.com

The unprotected points on those pear shape emeralds are not going to last long, when the ring is worn.

The way this is designed is such a bad idea. These emeralds are destined to break and fall out. As for putting more in, my best guess is to squeeze the two diamond settings in toward each other. It should tighten up on the emerald.

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As suggested above, I would begin by using parallel pliers to push the outer prongs on the two diamond settings between adjacent emeralds towards each other, beginning with stones near the center of the ring, and working outwards towards the end stones.

Also as mentioned above, that design, leaving points on the emeral pear shapes so exposed is definitely asking for problems when worn by the customer.

Is this a piece that you made? Or is it a repair? If it’s a repair, don’t touch it. Kindly suggest that the ring go back to it’s original maker. If you made it, I would highly suggest that you redesign it to be more stable. When ever setting gems, the under gallery should be heavier than the rest of the ring. Otherwise if the under-gallery is too thin while being worn it will bend first, thus loosing the gems. For gem set rings the bottom of the shank should be thinner than the top. Also any pear shaped stones should have a V cap to protect the point of the stone. Especially something as fragile as an emerald.

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As criminal offenses in jewelry go, this is a felony. This ring is exactly an example of why I don’t repair what I didn’t make. This ring should be a case study in how not to design. There is a complete and total disregard for materials, engineering, wearability, as well as, the necessity to leave a “backdoor” should a repair ever be necessary. Run, don’t walk away from this job.

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