Emerald Seting

Hello everyrone!

Here is my little wonderful ‘easy’ setting project I encountered a
while back. It was a full-bezel 18kt. 5.25 ct. heavily flawed,
Emerald with a wholesale value of only $10,000.00.

I was given the task & privilege after 2 other setters refused it on
sight, dunno why? No gluing took place, just loads of patience & no
interruptions!!! I had to sit & look over where the facet-edges
would touch the bezel. Where they did, I made little grooves with a
bud-bur, into the wall of the Oval-Bezel. All I wanted was the flat
facet to do the touching to the inside of the bezel-wall, not the
corners/edges. I didn’t want any pressure-points & stress put on the
stone. for obvious reasons.

Two & half hours later, the job was done. As you can see, I took as
many photographs as I could during & after the intense setting
process. My client arrived at my office on the Monday, extremely
pleased with the finished project. I also bead-set the multitude of
diamonds. On ‘Difficulty Scale of 10’, I gave it about a 50+!!! On the
inside edge of the bezel, I also Bright-Cut the inner wall with a
“Right-Sided, Onglette #2” graver.

This was a ‘semi-difficult’ project, but glad it got done.

Good work Gerry! I always wonder on job like this if the customer
will choke on the setting fee. I usually get told, " I can’t charge
my customer that much. I’ll have to take a loss." It makes me feel
inferior. I don’t hold a gun to their head, but they make me feel as
if I do. Thank you for being honest about the amount of time it took
to do this job. I don’t think anyone could have done it faster. I
hope you got several hundred dollars to set that emerald. Again,
good work!

Hi Kevin & everyone!

There are days when one must tell the customer, "If you want me to
set the stone so it will be a prized memento, this is my fee for my
"…etc.!!! Today, I will charge at least $375.00. Ten years
ago, I charged my wholesale-client only $150.00…but look at the run
I’m having with it. It now adorns my business card & advertising &
talk about it. well worth the effort, eh? If your client won’t go your
fee. give it back to them, don’t blink an eye & tell them to “have a
good life”. Sometimes I did actually refuse setting jobs.
gut-feelings, design flaws, insult to my skill level. Not including
the attitude of the ‘trade’-client who wanted me to do setting for
ultra-cheap prices. get my drift? - Kevin, it’s better if the
customer chokes on your fee-structure than you-. After all, it’s you
who is doing the setting. I always say “if my prices are too high.
here are my tools & you can set it yourself”!..


Kevin- As you know one of the “Three Great Lies” in the retail
jewelry trade is…

“I’m not making any money on this. Can you lower your price?” The
second one is " Can you put a rush on this? My customer is leaving
town." The third one is not suitable for a public posting.

Have fun and make lots of jewelry.

Jo Haemer