Have you made a divot in the metal first before you start to drill? Also I go up and down with my drill and not try to just tunnel through the metal it gives it a chance to clear out any burs or pieces of metal that may get in the way.
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I finally bought a drill press. It has a variable speed - youre at the correct angle - put a bit of lubricant on the metal - wood underneath. I also buy self centering drill bits - of different sizes. The bits broke when I used a flexible shaft - but drill press gives you more control.
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- I have been using Busch dental drills on gold and silver with wax or Burr Life as lubricant for over 40 years. They last forever and take ages to get dull.
- Start hole with center punch.
- An incorrectly sharpened drill will dull quickly.
Janet in Jerusalem
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More recently I’ve been supplying from McMaster Carr …they’ve also got SS spring wire for broach pins…nice!
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Nice to have the 3/32” bits for your quick change handpiece but “jam it” one time and you’ll be replacing the shaft on your Foredom.
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Rarely have this problem. Are you buying dead soft material?
How old are your bits?
Much more commonly I experience drill bit fracture. Anything smaller than 1 mm is all but impossible to sharpen.
Slow speed is the key.
All the bits I have bought have been sharp; they have cut nicely.
If you have ever used the bits on steel they are likely dull.
Never had any success sharpening with a stone, only a very fine diamond disc and magnification.
Titanium tipping is useless in my experience: hardened tool steel is much better.
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use wax on the drill bit. Will help smoothen the process.
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