Hello Pat Hicks and all on Orchid(,eh!) Well to understand that all
diamonds, (mostly all ! ) have a tendency to have certain layout
ratios of cutting angles on the crown and pavillion. These ratios
are mostly the same. You can buy burrs that again, almost match these
degrees of cutting or polishing. So here, our life is totally easy in
preparing the seats or bearrings for these well made stones. Now
comes the ‘fun’ part of Rubies, Sapphires and Emeralds where these
uniform angles are thrown out of the window, totally. These just
named stones have a almost barrel shaped under-belly or pavillion.
They do not at all conform to the degree of cutting to the mass
produced burrs we all find. So what do we have to do in preparing
the seat for these so much loved stones? I for one, just relish to
waste time on grooving out the seat so the bearring cut absolutely
conforms to the pavillion of that particular stone. Time, tedium,
experience, waste of burrs, but in all of this the job gets done. It
has to ‘we’ have to set that stone without breaking it. I start to
use a bearring-cutter along with a small bud burr or even a very
small round burr to cut the claw to get the shape of the stone. I
initially make the bearring cut. Heres the trick… Please all rely
on the smaller sizes of burrs Round 006- 009, Bud 005 - 009, and
even a 156C 009 and up! These are your “new tools” for these stones.
I, with greater ease love to mould the claw with my favourite bud
burrs. I make the first cut with a guide using my 156C then using
this as a “starting plan” use my budd burr to gradually angle down
and finish my cutting at the lower part of the claw. This is done
with every claw that is needed. Isn’t this fun,eh? …:>( Extra
care is now given just for the lovely delicate Emeralds, where any
gold not adhering to the shape of the stone can break this stone when
pressure is applied to the top or side of any claw. Ever hear an
Emerald break? great sound isn’t it? I check the claw and "woops!"
extra unused metal was still there. People, always use a loupe to
check the formation of these claws, place the stone in, does is
match the stone? if not, take it out and check and re-groove again.
Replace the stone afterwards, if the stone isn’t rolling around, set
it with great care. and do the cup burring with greater care on these
delicate stones. Use a pumice wheel to clean up and “plier or pusher"
marks. Do this now, don’t leave it for the polishing procedure. Are
all of the claws aligned up in neat straight rows? Stones straight,
and not tilted? Is there an element of pride in your work? Pat, have
I made this setting procedure interesting for you and the rest of us?
I will be re-printing this article and handing it out to my school
class for tonight. So in closing diamond setting is so vastly
different from stone setting, trust me! I will also starting to do
"in-shop training/teaching” at your store, office, shop around
America staring in January/02. Is anyone interested?
“Gerry, the cyber-setter !” www.gemzdiamondsetting.com