You may know what the costs are to purchase the stuff but you have
no idea what the individual jewelers' costs are to make it up for
you.
I guess I’ve not made myself clear again. I did not mean that the
setting cost X and the stones cost Y and that I expected the price
to be equal to X + Y or even X + Y plus a bit. I obviously knew that
such prices were wholesale as I had got wholesale prices due to me
having a foot in the business myself. I therefore expected to be
charged retail for it but thought that didn’t need to be stated and
that people would take it as read. It’s just that for me, the prices
were too high. I wouldn’t balk at such prices if I could afford them
- if I have the money, I will pay what something costs (within
reason of course).
I’ve figured out (with Nicola from Ireland’s help) that we’re just
talking about different leagues here. I am not yet in the league of
your customers (or those of other higher end jewellers) - it’s as
simple as that - and so I will have to wait until I am before I can
afford to have something nice made in 18K, nice diamonds and
Columbian emeralds. The piece in question was to be a present from
my beloved and we were pricing it up so he knew how much to save -
he’s lovely like that. 
Helen
UK
but I envy the system as a whole, and the trust it has gained the
whole world over. Likely the best in the world...
Yep, there are plenty who criticize our hallmarking system, but many
more who respect it for what it is. Breech of the hallmarking law is
a specific offence in its own right and carries a possible sentence
of up to 10 years imprisonment (I looked it up today in answer to
someone’s question about it)! Our government take it very seriously.
It’s just the way it is - we just have to factor the inconvenience
and extra cost into the equation. It’s there to protect the buying
public and honest jewellers and it is trusted the world over as John
says.
Helen
UK
Hold it right there Stephen!
This statement assumes that we are all quality mark swindlers here
in the US.
My statement assumed nothing of the sort! I have never even thought,
never mind implied that jewellers in the US are quality mark
swindlers - that’s a terrible accusation and I strongly object. You
seem to be convinced that because we have such a hallmarking system,
that we all assume you US jewellers to be dishonest - not a bit of
it. I like our system and can operate within it. I also understand
and respect your system and KNOW that the majority of jewellers work
honestly within your system too.
This hallmarking issue regarding American work is so grossly
exaggerated in the minds of every British jeweler I have ever
talked to that it amounts to an assumption of guilt.
Not this one it isn’t. You’ve made a completely wrong assumption
there. I have NEVER stated that any American jewellery is made of
substandard material and to do so would be very insulting indeed, as
you say.
Re-read what I wrote. It was in reply to something Daniel Spirer
said. He made a detrimental comment about the use of 9K gold, saying
that he would not even call it gold. I merely pointed out that
Americans/the American system of jewellery metals, classes 10K gold
as gold and that it’s not exactly much more pure than 9K. There was
NO insinuation about the integrity of ANY jewellers in the US. How
can you possibly take that statement the way you did?
I am really, really upset by your post and you have literally
brought me to tears with your misunderstanding. I believe all people
on this list and the vast majority of jewellers, be they American or
English, Irish, Scottish, Welsh, Canadian, Australian, German,
Israeli, etc, etc whatever nationality to be of high integrity. I
never implied, nor even thought of any dishonest behaviour when I
posted.
Yours, very upset,
Helen
UK
This statement assumes that we are all quality mark swindlers here
in the US.
My statement assumed nothing of the sort! I have never even
thought, never mind implied that jewellers in the US are quality
mark swindlers - that's a terrible accusation and I strongly
object.
Very sorry Helen. I foolishly misunderstood in your words something
I have argued with other British jewellers in the past. You wrote:
Yes I know that, but you do call 10K gold, which is hardly much
more pure than the 9K that you dismiss as not being worthy to be
called gold.
My hasty reading skipped over the word “hardly” and presumed that
your point was that hallmarked British 9c gold, is at least really
9/24 gold, while American 10K may well have no higher content because
nobody is accountable.
I apologize for any stress my stupidity may have caused you. I am
very embarrassed to have launched into this tirade which should be
saved for those British jeweller friends of mine who do insist that
our gold is of unreliable quality.
I have been exposed to the criticism of America’s lack of a tightly
regulated assay/hallmarking system for many years. Mostly in
chatting with Scottish jewellers I do business with on friendly
terms, but also in talking to jewelers at trade shows. One incident
particularly is burned in my memory, when a British craftsman scolded
the entire assembly of the Society of North American Goldsmiths from
the podium at a conference. I was a student at the time and really
expected someone with more gravitas than myself to stand up for
American integrity. To our shame, nobody did.
I am actually one of the few Americans who uses your system. My
punch is registered at Edinburgh. I did supply several shops in
Scotland for a while, but the assay requirement is an obstacle for me
when I try to sell to them. Most of the Scottish and Irish jewellery
that I import for my business comes hallmarked, although that is not
necessary. The British system definitely favors domestic manufacture
and presents a barrier that handicaps foreign work, especially small
operations who cannot absorb the cost in money and delay that having
an agent shepherd the goods through the process.
Again, my most sincere apoligies to Helen in the UK,
Stephen Walker
Very sorry Helen. I foolishly misunderstood in your words
something I have argued with other British jewellers in the past.
Thank you Stephen. It’s very easy to get the wrong meaning with
emails - face to face communication is much more reliable.
The British system definitely favors domestic manufacture and
presents a barrier that handicaps foreign work
There are still plenty of cheap, poor quality imports coming in
though, which makes it very hard to compete.
You’re honest, your work meets the standards and you have a stamp at
the Edinburgh office, so isn’t it just a case of factoring in the
extra time and money if you want to sell to Scotland or Ireland?
Thanks again Stephen - there’s definitely no hard feelings - it was
an honest mistake.
Helen
UK