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Design award manufacturing problem


#1

Please, can someone help. I’m a newbee.

I’ve had some success in the above design competition entry.

I had original conceived this ring to be made of 18K “grey” gold.
I’ve been told by my jeweler, in Bangkok, that it isn’t possible to
make in “grey” gold.

What are my options? Whilst still maintaining the rings appearance.
grey matte finish.

If grey gold isn’t an option. Is titanium a possibility? I believe
the diamonds could be flush set in titanium. Would i be able to find
anyone to do this work in titanium? Or, would i have no option but to
go with blackened silver? Would this give the same matte appearance?

The above ring needs to be ready for Tucson, on 6th February.

Diamond sizes are 8 x 0.25ct Emerald cut, approx 4.5 x 3.1 mm 48 x
0.9 ct round brilliant. 4 x 1.5 ct round brilliant

I’m based in Thailand, and thank you all in advance for any
suggestions you may offer.

Geoff


#2

Congratulations Geoff, as for grey gold. Your picture, which I
assume you posted, did not come through so I am guessing as to what
you are looking for. In my experience white gold that has been sand
blasted gives a flat grey appearance. Different blasting media give
different texture so you may have to try a few to get what you are
looking for. Stay away from the crushed ruby and other really hard
media and go more toward the stuff that will not leave any bright
sparkle. Best suggestions, also give United Precious Metals a call
(800-999-fine) and talk to the tech guy about which alloy to use that
will give the greyest color to the gold.

My best suggestions, good luck. Frank Goss


#3

Did your jeweler in Thailand tell you why he can’t make the ring in
grey gold? Barbara on a rainy day on the island where the coloured
leaves are as bright as the sun


#4

Thanks for the response and ideas.

I was told by the manufacturer i intend to use, that grey gold is
rarely used; he has no experience with it, and that it would be
costly to create an alloy from scratch.

Subsequently, it’s also been suggested that using white gold with a
matte finish, and then black rhodium plating, would give the desired
matte grey appearance.

I think i’ll be going with this option, as i’m on a deadline, and it
will give the desired appearance.

Ultimately, i would like a grey colored alloy, without the plating.
But, it looks like it may take some time to source.

Sorry, i don’t seem able to post the picture.

Thanks. Geoff


#5

Hello geoff,

i don’t know who you’re using but Hoover and Strong will do custom
orders but the turn around is about a week to 8 days with expedited
shipping costs added to accommodate your promise date., If you even
want to consider calling them, ask for the milling dept. first-
don’t go through the customer service people that answer the phones
or you may get a flat no from every possible manufacturer. H&S does
custom coloured alloys ( although if you are having something cast,
why not just use a casting service and provide them with an alloy you
submit? If you need a recipe I have one. Contact me off list) I
wouldn’t pay for white gold ( as you are paying premium spot for for
nickel, not an alloy of gold & silver, or even palladium ) then have
them leave out the basic finishing that they would probably not
charge you for ( to have the metal remain matte without adding
additional finishing charges for a high polish that is most often
where the finishing costs are) then adding a plating of black rhodium
!!! that would be too dark grey- and hard, and if you have to size or
otherwise solder of grave or anything what will you do- send it back
to have it replated after you tweak your design or the piece??? Seems
like you are trying to get a titanium colour, if not stainless steel
whilst paying premium prices plus the additional, expensive rhodium
step because a supposed master doesn’t know a recipe for a basic
coloured alloy !. I specialise in coloured gold alloys and mill
products, 34 of them other than standard yellow, green, red, and
white- it really isn’t that hard if the company you are considering
has raw materials at their disposal… Sounds to me like the Co. you
have chosen buys their master alloys and melts em down and pours em
out in standards only…I would reconsider your options, and if
necessary find a casting co. that will use your own alloy even if you
have to make it yourself… Otherwise explain that to the customer
and ask if it’s ok to have the piece cast in Ti, or stainless as long
as you can work them If not, see about extending the promise date,
make the alloy and either mill it yourself or if it’s a cast piece
ordered, find a service willing to use the alloy you will make and
send… Regards,. rer