Just to add a little visual clarity (I’m still leaning toward a Cad render we’re looking at)
I blew up the shot so it’s clear that the surface is raised.
Thanks, Jim
Oh yeah, sure enough.
Good eye Jim.
Mark
Yep - I had missed that the surface was slightly domed. Never mind…
I’m thinking you could make the ring in wax and roll in it some wax shavings/wire fragments, then cast it. That should give you this effect!
Ben
The original poster says, the mfgter offers the same ring plain, so perhaps he should say who he is and where?
And as you say, your still thinking, that its in fact not an actual ring, but a cad rendering.
theres no substitute to having it in the hand to examine.
so far all descriptions hav e been rather misleading, From ,as i said previously, the lines look raised, this in a die is done as follows. all dies are cut in the negative, so to get raised lines one has a polished flat surface into which one cuts what ever design or detail one wants. then when minted the background is flat, and polished with the die incised lines as raised detail
however the tonnage needed for die striking can be quite daunting, were talking upwards on a ring blank such as this, of 100 tons or more depending on the metal and carat.
It would be done cold. this always doubles the tonnage to striking hot. thats another story for another day. You cant use normal coining toggle or hyd presses. you need something else!!.
Ted.
As a watchmaker, I put these types of finishes on all the time. 3M makes a variety of finishing wheels out of synthetic material in different grits. I put one of these wheels on my buffing machine and finish the case in the matter of a minute or two. On watchmaking tool and part sites (I don’t think I’ve seen this in jewelry tool store site) they also sell special tap to tape off parts of your piece so the 3M buff will not buff this portion of your work. The tape , which is a blue translucent tape, can be cut into designs and can further extend the designs you can do by surface finishing. I think these are sold under the “Scothbrite” brand by 3M. Incidentally, I do not find that these work well on flex shaft tools. I need the power of a buff to make them work properly.
Looks to me very much like fabric or some material such as crinkled aluminum foil pressed into wax while its surface is warm/soft. This would also be by far the easiest and least expensive production process among the ones mentioned.
Janet in Jerusalem
Hi,
obviously this is nice topic for suggestions. Probably @Bill.Tokyo is closest to the exact procedure decoration(some finishing wheels). I found same decoration with another manufacturer http://www.breuning.com/de/pure-love/basic/48056030.html (better picture’s resolution)
Anyway,for two weeks I will go in Italy(Vicenzaoro ,the jewellery show) and ,I hope,I’ll find someone wedding rings exhibitors who will tell me how it’s done(lol).
You have to be very suspicious of pictures these days. Often you are not even looking at something real It can be hard to tell a CAD render from a real photograph.
I guess,this is it.
Hi
I’ve used these wheels for years, and am a great fan. However they produce s finish quite different than the one that started this topic. The finish, depending on the thickness of the wire on the texture wheel, goes from a frosty, almost sandblasted look ( fine wire) to a finish close to stippling ( heavy wire). They can produce an intentional " directional" look amongst other varistions depending on how you present the piece to the wheel.
The finish called “ice” is the closest to the ring starting the post, however, again, all the finishing techniques described, other than stamping of machining in cad, are cut into the surface. Any spinning tool will have an inherent directional pattern, unless it’s a single cutting surface ( like the edge of a heart of knife edge bur). Multiple cutting surfaces,i.e. Scotch bright, pinned texture wheels Etc. Have multiple cutting edges going the same direction giving a like pattern to the object textured.
All the previous posts are good stuff, and this is a topic that is now addressing textures and methods which is interesting and useful.
I’ m interested to follow the techniques being uncovered.
Thanks
Jim
Hi All.
…I was just thinking…the whole surface of the ring (highs and lows) is very reflective, considering that it is a textured ring…the raised texture appears rounded and burnished and reflective …would need to be substantial enough to hold up to the finishing…rather than the usual matte/ scratch/ cut final surface that results from various texturing wheels…?
then again…I am leaning toward an applied texture in CAD…?
Julie
Here’s a reliable source for producing many of the finishes that you show. Jules Borel and Otto Frei are watch tool supply houses, but that doesn’t matter. Finishes are the same.:
http://www.ofrei.com/page271.html#3270
However, as noted below, they won’t produce all the finishes, particularly the Florentine. For that I use checkering files that are used by gunsmiths for checking stocks. Here’s a good source for them;
Finally, for “stone” finish, just rough 120 grit sandpaper will do this just fine. Another tool I use for doing engraved line finishes like Florentine, but straight parrallel lines are gravers, which you can get from Continetti or any of the other jewelry supply houses.
Hi All,
…the original ring texture kinda looks "wrinkled’…hmmm
Hi Bill.Tokyo,
Thanks so much for sharing those links! the various protective films are very interesting!
I wish i had known about the various products shown years ago…I wanted something similar, a protective film, with a thicker, very low tack, water soluble adhesive back…ended up getting sample rolls from Surface Armor…the minimum orders were a bit high…
I might try some of these out!
Julie