call me late in replying to this very late posting…:>( but now that
the jewellery season is FINALLY over I can get back with my own
observations on SETTING STONES. cutting bearings in claws…what is a
bearing cut? glad you all asked me in unison! a friend said to me a
bearing cut is just that, it is a cut in a claw that “bears the
weight” of a stone, or in other words the stones sits “on” this seat.
If any of you folks have a stone that is larger than the available
claw setting. Do not pry open the 4 claw setting, you will definitely
stress the gold and cause some breakage with the setting process. I
will VERY GENTLY with the aid of a tip of a larger round bur (with
the head removed) open the 4 claws uniformly and equally. There will
be times in your setting life you must tell the claws to “open wide &
say ahh”. The end result is that the claws must hold the stone and
have the claws actually cover the girdle. Along with this you the
jeweller and setter must allow for polishing and customer wear and
tear, hence, a little more metal MUST be over the girdle. Lets not
forget the “77B”, or cup burring process.I would at this point round
off the claw tips but holding the bur at slightly backward position
maybe at a 33 degree back angle. No sharp edges must be felt to your
fingers. If there are any, then smooth out the rough edges with a
sharp pointed pumice wheel of #180 grit. Make sure with this process
with your “baby finger”, claws should be as smooth as a babies tush,
as I call it… If there are any sharp edges, the polishing wheel
will snap back the claw and you will loose the stone while being
polished!!! Now you don’t want this do you??..:>)
All of the stone claws should be holding the stone securely, "table"
should be horizontal and the claws near as a vertical position, when
completed. Enjoy setting!
Gerry, the Cyber-Setter !