Cross pendants for a church

I need help with where to go for this. I’m trying to have pendants of
the cross made for the Swedenborgian Church.

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/x4

(you can see the cross on the upper left hand of the webpage.) These
are being made to be sold nationally to all the congregations. I
altered the image (not the image I showed you) a little so that we
could do round pendants about 1 1/4 inches in diameter and have the
image cut out, using a laser cutter.

Well these may be ordered by the tens or more. So it’s not
necessarily a huge order all at once, small congregation. I talked
to one precious metal laser cutting company and it would cost $23 to
cut the metal for each pendant and that doesn’t include the cost of
the silver. Adding in the cost of the silver, shipping silver to the
laser cutter, and then them shipping to me, and then me shipping to
the church is adding up to too much money.

Do you have any suggestions on how to have these done? Obviously if
I handcut them no one could afford them. So I’m trying to outsource
and make it affordable for the church. I’m open to suggestions on
different companies to use and different materials (something other
than silver)

(Just a note I don’t attend church, which makes this kind of ironic,
but it seemed like an interesting job.)

Thank you in advance!
Valerie Heck Esmont
valerieaheck.blogspot.com

Well looking at the piece, I would say that you might think of
getting one (1) laser cut, then mold it for waxes/casting. You could
shoot a wax, and cast it for a lot less than $23.00 plus you would
have the opportunity to offer it in gold as well as silver. Also
save on shipping things back an forth, that is if you have wax
injection and casting capabilities.

It would be a nice little side for our situation and this is what we
would do.

Good luck.
John Dach

Do you have any suggestions on how to have these done? 

Cast them. I know the design looks delicate, but such things can be
routinely cast. In fact, with proper spruing, lighter wire type
designs can be cast better than some heavier designs, since
shrinkage porosity is not generally so much of a problem with overall
light designs. A good mold is needed, and after that, any decently
skilled caster can do this. Some of them offer finishing services as
well. Tumble polishing would take care of finishing the cutout
sections reasonably well, and manual lapping of the front and back
surfaces could do the rest, giving a nice clean look. AU enterprises
in Southfield Michigan is one such caster who can also do finishing
work for you, and there are others as well.

Hope that helps
Peter Rowe

I don’t know if this site can help, but an inquiry wouldn’t hurt. I
know they’ve done products for the etsy shop Nervous System.

Good luck!
Georgette

Hi there! How about making a mold and casting them?

Tx
Carina Rossner

Do you have any suggestions on how to have these done? Obviously
if I handcut them no one could afford them. 

Valerie, that’s a standard place where casting is called for. People
here recommend RaceCar Jewelry for that, I have no direct experience
with them. If it really flies, you could get into white metal casting
and get your cost down to 50 cents apiece, maybe…That’s for
larger production, as start-up costs aren’t so cheap.

Hi Valerie;

I wouldn’t have these laser cut. If it were my project, I’d send a
black and white graphic after making the lines slightly heavier, to
Geelhood to have a photo etched zinc model done, which would not be
pierced out completely but would be at 2 levels, the dark lines
being the higher level and the cut out areas recessed. Then, if it
were important to have the design pierced out, do that with a
jewelers saw. I think it would read nicely with the low areas left in
tact and darkened. Cost at this point would be around $20. Then, make
an RTV mold and shoot waxes. If you don’t cast, then send them to
Roni, who would cast them for around $5 each plus the cost of metal.
Roni can make the mold too if you need, I think for around $20, and
they may charge you a little more for shooting waxes and sprueing.
Finish the high areas to 600 grit, darken with liver of sulphur, then
polish the high areas, back and edges for a nice contrast.

David L. Huffman

You could do a CAD model with a simple extrusion of the curves. Then
you could either cast direct from the prototype or make a mold from
a casting of the first prototype. This would lend itself very well to
CAD.