All through my many years of Diamond Setting, at last count, it’s 57 yrs. (I only hope that these setting numbers keep clicking!..)
I’ve collected, put-aside & printed and archived so many setting notes that once in a while MORE notes keep showing their heads to me. Here are a few more…learn & above all have fun!
Collection of Recently Archived Setting Notes!
Do not measure the stone size from the wax form . In this case the obvious is forgetting the 10+% shrinkage from the wax to the final gold stage of manufacturing!
If you don’t have the right tool, improvise . Not every tool you need is in the tool supply company in your city! Many of my own ‘required’ setting tools are now bought from hardware, or even automotive stores!
Do not be afraid to buy “new and improved” tools . They may be just that, new and improved ready for you to use!
If the cabochon stone “rocks” in the bezel, it isn’t sitting correctly and more fitting is required before setting takes place! I suggest re-drilling the base or bearing cut!
Tighten all stones before the polishing or soldering process . Due to these two processes,
Heat expands the gold. Subsequently, stones will get loose just when you don’t need them to happen…when a customer is waiting…!
Protect your eyes when breaking out damaged stones of any kind . Safety-glasses, or just a tight-fitting visor is needed to save your sight!
Tighten loose “solitaire-set” stones . Slide with the aid of small pliers and squeeze two claws that are side by side. Then slide the other opposing claws together. Once the stone is tight, re-arrange the 4 claws into the original configuration.
How can you tell the difference between a CZ and a diamond ? Hold the CZ culet up and notice a ‘halo’ effect around the girdle, those are the Crown facets showing through.
The girdle is highly polished, and no matching faceting above & below the girdle. The CZ is basically transparent. The edges of each of the facets are not sharp and crisp, or ‘smoothed’ over. These many differences are not scientific, but after many years of setting these stones, experience dictates what is and isn’t in these stones.
What to look for in ‘setting-stones-in-wax’? First of all, do not let any of the stones touch each other in the wax form. Do not quench to ‘cool in water’ with the crucible. Fast cooling breaks or ‘burns’ the stones and diamonds. Let the hot crucible ‘cool down’ on the cement floor or just return them to the cooling furnace. Have the investment reach and be secure under the stones, while in the wax. This way each stone will not wander around the wax as the investment is being poured, or you might just find the stones somewhere inside the rings shank. You’ve lost the stones and even worse, the ring is ruined!
These are just a few brief of the setting tips for you to look over and be as a guide in the future.