Hello Eric and all,
I would like to recommend that you also consider a "Lucas Low Boy"
foot pedal for your flex shaft.
I bought one years ago after using my mentor’s, and have found it to
have a very, very, very, very delicate touch, provide exceptional
I think it might also have to do with the unique design “angle of
the pedal”? The pedal itself is parallel to the floor and very low to
the ground, as opposed to angled upward toward the back. The “action"
on the pedal seems to be at the front, whereas the angled foot pedals
"seem” to have the “action” at the back. meaning where you have to
push down in order for things to start happening. I think I push down
with my toes, as opposed to the ball of my foot. my heel is on the
ground.(less tension on my ankles as well)
It does not “jump out of the gate”, as some other foot pedals tend
When I think about “game changing” items in my studio, this foot
pedal would make the list, along with my GRS power hone for
Speaking of speed and control, here are some other ideas I would
I often use small round burs for cutting seats for melees “by
hand”, with a few quick twists (after the hole has been drilled).(say
bur sizes 1.2mm thru 2.5mm). I keep a “set” of them at hand, in
(drill) racks, each bur size in its own metal handle with adjustable
chuck (size of a short pen) (bur size written on masking tape around
the handle) (bought about 10-15 handles).
when doing layout for pave, where the margin might be very small
between stones, I have found the hand held, tiny spiral twist drill,
loaded with a .5mm twist drill, to be very good for "improving on"
the initial center punch (or scribe) divot (or dot/ nick) that is
made (just a few quick twists), so that the subsequent drill (say a
…5mm-7mm for example) used to open up the hole does not “wander” at
Hope that all made sense. not tips for speed. more for when better
accuracy is wanted.