I would like some advice on this, I havent tried any of these
motors, But I am buying a flex shaft and I primarily want one that
has a nice smooth slow start and can run at slow speeds, for cutting
seats in small prongs. I know the LX only goes to 5000 rpm so being
a “lower geared motor” I am thinking it may perform better at this
than the TX, that goes up to I think 15000 rpm. I would also like
the speed though since this will be my only machine for now. I
havent used any Foredoms so I am wondering about how the different
motors behave at slow speeds and any thoughts on bur control at
different speeds and with the different Fordom motors.
I recently did some research and bought a new flexshaft tool. My
forty year old Foredom EE served me well, but I needed (wanted) a
new one. The EE had a direct high speed configuration and a gear
down for low speed applications like using a hammer attachment. You
did have to physically more the shaft from one output spindle to the
other depending on the speed range you wanted. I don’t think that
they make this model anymore. After rebuilding it, I now have
dedicated the EE to slow speed applications, mainly hammering and
use a new SR for high speed applications. I am left handed and got
the reversible model, but it doesn’t seem to matter. Go to the
Foredom site to do your research as there seems to be more
there than on their reseller sites. The best thing I did
was to buy a quick change hand piece and converted all of my points
to whatever size collet the hand piece needs. I can easily use the
old #30 for odd sized points. A flexshaft tool, if not already, will
become one of your most used and essential tools. Don’t skimp on it
and spend a lot of time looking at your work flow to figure out
where to use it. Since I do a lot of grinding with mine, it creates
a lot of dust. I drilled a hole into my bench top and installed a
suction line to it from my dust collector. The debris from the
flexshaft is pulled into the hole and out of the way. That which
hits the bench top can be easily brushed into the hole. Cut a piece
of hardware cloth or buy a drain screen to put over the hole. You
don’t want the piece that you are working on to go down the hole
with your dust. Finally, I have a small removable hood over the top.
This is actually a repurposed large square plastic cat litter
container with a cut out. My plan was to make a better one out of
metal, but plastic works just fine. My dust collector is a small
dust cyclone from Oneida Air Systems. There are other manufacturers,
I just happen to live near Oneida. They work very well for this type
of application. Good luck. Rob
I would like to recommend that you also consider a "Lucas Low Boy"
foot pedal for your flex shaft.
I bought one years ago after using my mentor’s, and have found it to
have a very, very, very, very delicate touch, provide exceptional
speed control.
I think it might also have to do with the unique design “angle of
the pedal”? The pedal itself is parallel to the floor and very low to
the ground, as opposed to angled upward toward the back. The “action"
on the pedal seems to be at the front, whereas the angled foot pedals
"seem” to have the “action” at the back. meaning where you have to
push down in order for things to start happening. I think I push down
with my toes, as opposed to the ball of my foot. my heel is on the
ground.(less tension on my ankles as well)
It does not “jump out of the gate”, as some other foot pedals tend
to do.
When I think about “game changing” items in my studio, this foot
pedal would make the list, along with my GRS power hone for
sharpening gravers.
Speaking of speed and control, here are some other ideas I would
like to
I often use small round burs for cutting seats for melees “by
hand”, with a few quick twists (after the hole has been drilled).(say
bur sizes 1.2mm thru 2.5mm). I keep a “set” of them at hand, in
(drill) racks, each bur size in its own metal handle with adjustable
chuck (size of a short pen) (bur size written on masking tape around
the handle) (bought about 10-15 handles).
when doing layout for pave, where the margin might be very small
between stones, I have found the hand held, tiny spiral twist drill,
loaded with a .5mm twist drill, to be very good for "improving on"
the initial center punch (or scribe) divot (or dot/ nick) that is
made (just a few quick twists), so that the subsequent drill (say a
…5mm-7mm for example) used to open up the hole does not “wander” at
all.
Hope that all made sense. not tips for speed. more for when better
accuracy is wanted.