Someone mentioned “I believe most cast in place pieces now days are
done using induction casting.” This may be true due to the fact that
the large companies only have induction…, However , to assume that
induction is far more accurate is not neccessarily correct. When an
Induction machine that will melt your metal in 3 minutes melts, it’s
putting out some serious horse power to do so and as a result, on the
first pass, these machines tend to overshoot the melting temperature
by quite a bit, then, after a minute or 2 they stabilize ( more or
less) .This is why these machines work best using fresh gold and why
they are always sending metal out to refiners …They don’t get the
reuseability that torch casting offers if done right.We have never
sent gold or silver out for refining ! I’ m sure to catch some flack
from the companies that sell induction machines !
I believe that if you ran a pole , you would find that people who buy
raw castings from large production houses get quite a bit of porosity
in their castings( varies depending on how good they are and how much
care is taken)Most of my customers used to deal with larger casting
houses and their
major complaint was porosity .
I digress, Back to the main subject. If you want to cast a setting
into a different shank, you must be careful of
the quenching times dependant on your alloys. Copper based sterling
will be soft and maleable if quenched at the 10 minute mark after
pouring.Hard and probably brittle after 20 minutes.
Non - tranishing silver will be brittle if quenched at 10 minutes ,
but malleable at 20 minutes.
Most 14k gold alloys will be fine quenched at the 20 minute mark .
Most white gold alloys are best quenched at the 10 minute mark.
This may solve the brittleness that some people experience.