Helen & John,
If you are experiencing some rough edges on your unsoldered rings,
try tumbling the finished chain. I use a rotary tumbler with
stainless steel shot and a little Dawn dishwashing liquid. This will
remove some of those nasty edges. Of course, you do need to
carefully cut, open and close those rings!
Francine Nardolillo
Perlina-Cucina
Dear Michelle,
Your chain sounds very similar to mine.
Thanks for the great advice about size of wire. I mostly use 0.8 and
1.0 mm too and was wondering how much I would need to make an 18"
chain. You read my mind - thanks!
Helen
Aspect Ratio (AR) is the term. It is a handy little equation. If you know that a weave will work with a given wire diameter
I thought I’d explain what this means to those casual readers who
are just curious. If you have a 1mm wire, and make jump rings out of
it to make either chains or chainmail with, then you have a decision
to make. If the ID of your ring is 2mm, then you can maybe get 2
rings to link to it, but your chain will be tight. If it’s 3mm you
can put two rings and you’ll have a looser chain. Your basic
chainmail pattern is called 4-in-1, which means that four rings link
into one ring. So your ID for 1mm wire must be at least 4mm - if
it’s 6mm you’ll get a looser mail. This all varies as to the size of
the wire and the desired results, and that’s what this all is about,
is how to figure that out ahead of time. Many of the patterns have
an optimum AR, because the links go together just a certain way, so
it’s even more important then. I’m not an expert at this, I just
know about it…
I, too, love making chains. I have found that care in cutting the
links makes a huge difference in rough edges. If it’s sterling, I
use my Jump Ringer to cut them and make sure the blade is sharp. That
way I have very little (if any) roughness to start with. Then I
tumble the finished chain (rotary, with steel shot & burnishing
compound) to get rid of remaining edges.
I don’t solder these types of chains (Byzantine, Foxtail, etc)
unless the links are large for the weave & so likely to catch & pull
apart. For example, I make a tapered version of the Foxtail chain and
solder all the links in the larger middle section. By Foxtail, I am
referring to the weave that is like Byzantine but is a pattern of 4
links instead of 6. It’s a very neat square pattern. There is a
picture of one on my website.
For soldering links, there’s a trick to keeping solder from jumping.
I use a very small flame (Little Torch, oxy-propane, tip size 4).
Grasp the link to be soldered in locking tweezers to stabilize it and
protect the other links, and give you both hands free. Take your
soldering pick and dip it in your flux, then put just a drop or two
of flux on the seam. Have little pieces of solder ready. Heat the
seam gently so that the flux bubbles up then settles down, dip your
pick in the flux again and pick up a piece of solder, then transfer
the solder onto the seam. Heat again until it flows into the seam.
Needless to say, the ends must be butted up tightly, preferably with
no visible gap. Done well, you can’t even see the solder. I have to
give credit and thanks to DX Ross for teaching me this method. Once
you get the hang of it, it goes pretty fast. Also, I solder link by
link as I create the chain. Trying to go back afterwards is a real
pain.
If I am working with fine silver, I saw by hand as I have found that
the links fuse more consistently that way. I use brass tubing to
wrap the links (tightly!! neatness counts!!), and then scoot the coil
up to the edge and saw the links right on the tube. Works like a
charm, as long as you are careful to saw on an angle and not catch
the back of the other side.
My favorite chain books are Classical Loop in Loop Chains by Jean
Stark and Josephine Smith and Chain Making Link by Link by Jeanne
Jerousek-McAninch.
I also found some really excellent step-by-step instructions with
great pictures at http://bijoux-de-terre.com/, clink on “For our
students” on the left. They also have about aspect
ratios for different chains, which is quite useful.
Ann Kinsinger
http://lilikoijewelry.com
Dear Ann,
You’ve given some great advice, thanks. I do prefer the soldered look
though, so will be soldering all links and do it as I go as you
suggest. I need to learn to pick solder as Lisa Gallagher suggested
to me also.
I’d previously printed off some instructions for the Byzantine chain
but the website you suggested gives clearer instructions and
pictures so I’ve printed them off too, thanks.
I’ll look out for the books you mention too.
Regards,
Helen
Hi Helen,
I need to learn to pick solder as Lisa Gallagher suggested to me also.
I think you’ll find that for soldering chain links using paste
solder is by far the easiest & fastest method.
The amount of solder needed can easily be placed where it’s needed &
it stays there. Also since paste solder already has the flux in it
there’s no need for the fluxing operation.
I’m not sure where paste solder is available in the UK, but in the
US, Beth at myuniquesolutions.com sells a paste solder in syringes
that doesn’t dry out like many of the other paste solders do.
If any of the paste solders dry out over time, they can be rescued
by removing the plunger from the syringe & mixing a few drops of
mineral spirits with the remaining paste. Usually you’ll have to
remove the needle from the syringe & insert a blunt ended piece of
wire until it hits the plunger, hen remove it. This provides an air
passage to break the vacuum so the plunger can be removed. If the
plunger has a rubber end on it, don’t force the wire through the
rubber.
Paste solders are available in hard, medium, easy & extra easy in
silver & most kts. of gold.
Dave
Ann, I am always looking for chain making books, I can’t seem to get
enough of them. I don’t have the one you mentioned, “Chain Making Link By Link” by Jeanne Jerousek-McAninch, and I don’t see any
listings for it on-line (other than “not available” at Amazon.) Do
you by chance know where one might find it?
Thanks!
Lisa
Designs by Lisa Gallagher
In regard to soldering the links I have found good success using
’solder-filled sterling wire’. It keeps from having to mess with the
tiny pieces of solder and leaves a nice clean link. You still have
to be very careful when cutting the links to avoid rough edges and
makes sure the edges meet perfectly but the soldering sure goes
faster. Its especially useful for finer gauges of wire.
Mark Kaplan
Hi Mark,
'solder-filled sterling wire'
I’d never even heard of it before your mentioned it. I’ve done a
quick search but can’t find it in the UK. I’ll look into it further.
Thanks
Helen
Hi Lisa,
I don't have the one you mentioned, "Chain Making Link by Link" by Jeanne Jerousek-McAninch, and I don't see any listings for it on-line (other than "not available" at Amazon.) Do you by chance know where one might find it?
It’s available from Rio Grande (riogrande.com).
Dave
Lisa:
always looking for chain making books, I can't seem to get enough of them. I don't have the one you mentioned, "Chain Making Link by Link" by Jeanne Jerousek-McAninch, and I don't see any listings for it on-line (other than "not available" at Amazon.) Do you by chance know where one might find it?
When I bought my copy in 2001, I purchased it directly from her at:
La Milagross Press, Jeanne Jerousek-McAninch, 218 West Knox Drive,
Tucson, AZ 85705-3221
She works for the Parks and Recreation Dept. 520-791-4063.
I don’t know that they still sell it that way, but you could try. My
copy says Copyright 1983, revised 1999 and is a spiral bound soft
cover edition.
Kay
I think you'll find that for soldering chain links using paste solder is by far the easiest & fastest method.
Two places (and the only two, for the way I work) where paste solder
is a gift from the heavens are soldering small jumprings and doing
overlays - soldering two sheets together. Look out for cadmium,
though, especially in gold pastes. Don’t use cadmium anytime without
serious ventilation. I won’t have it in the shop, myself…
Hello Helen,
Solder-filled sterling wire is carried by Rio Grande in gauges 22
(.65mm) to 18 (1.0mm). I’ve had some for several years, but can’t
say I’ve used it. Hopefully someone with real experience will tell us
a few tips for soldering with it… like how to flux, type of flame,
etc.
Judy in Kansas, where night time temps chilled down to 50F.
Hopefully someone with real experience will tell us a few tips for soldering with it... like how to flux, type of flame, etc.
Sterling solder filled wire is actually a fine silver wire with an
inner copper core and a very fine solder core inside the copper
core, all combined it is equal to 92.5 % silver (sterling). It tends
to remain a little softer than traditional sterling wire, but it is
resistant to oxide build up when soldering, so there is very little
clean-up. Since the solder is flowing from the inner most core you
must have a VERY tight seem, similar to fusing. Use any type of flux
on the ends, my preference is a liquid self pickling flux like our
My-T-Flux or a Batterns flux. Use the same flame and soldering
process you would with typical jumprings, again making sure there is
no gap in the join.
Hope this helps,
Thackeray Taylor
Rio Grande Technical Support
800-545-6566
505-839-3000 ex 13903
technicalsupport@tbg.riogrande.com
Hi Judy,
Thanks for the heads up. I buy from Rio Grande so could add some to
my next order. Do you know if it contains Cadmium?
Helen
Preston, UK
Hello Helen,
I don’t know about the cadmium content of the solder-filled sterling
wire. Rio Grande tech folks like Thackery should be able to answer
that one.
Judy in Kansas
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the tip. I don’t know why I didn’t even think to look
there. I’ll have to add that to my list for the next time I order. By
the way, I’ve been making a lot of chains in the last few days,
cutting rings left & right, and my Koil Kutter is working like a
dream! 
I’ve had it for about 18 months now, but it’s taken a
while for me to get into the mindset of making my own rings most of
the time, as opposed to buying rings already made most of the time,
and cutting my own just now & then. Why did it take me so long, it’s
so easy!
Lisa
Designs by Lisa Gallagher
Jennifer,
I learned Viking Knit from the book “Great Wire Jewelry” by Irene
From Peterson. Good little book, clear directions.
Lisa
Designs by Lisa Gallagher
To each their own. I am not big on paste solders for things like
soldering chains.
As far as the chain book goes, Lisa, I bought my copy at the John C
Campbell Folk School book store.
In the front of the book, it gives this
Revised edition 1999, ISBN 0-9671064-0-0
La Milagrosa Press
218 W. Knox Dr.
Tucson AZ 85705
I tried looking up that company name on the Internet, and found
nothing. I searched on the address, and found this:
Arizona Designer Craftsmen
218 West Knox Drive
Tucson, AZ 85705-3221
Phone: 520-791-4063
FAX: 520-292-0198
If they are not there anymore, maybe we have Orchid members in
Tucson that could help. Or you could try the Folk School at
http://folkschool.org and see if they still have it or could
otherwise help. Good luck!
Ann Kinsinger
http://lilikoijewelry.com