Building wax bezels

Jewelry Discussion
1 
For those who might be interested in developing their wax working
skills I will be teaching a two day intensive workshop in the wax
build up technique

Unfortunately I am not able to take your class; but I would like to
ask a question about building wax bezels. Re: “create a perfect fit”
How do you account for shrinkage in the casting process?

K Kelly

2

Kevin et all!

As a simple setter for the past 47+ years, it is customary to have
the metal bezels designed with an on going supply of the same size of
stones. To mismatch in future with another near similar size is not
allowed in mass-production. Once the model-maker or silver
craftsperson makes the finished design, he has to allow for
"shrinkage" of estimated 10%, MAXIMUM ! The shrinkage is due to the
compression of rubber in the initial hot mold-making "hand-squeeze"
vise. Once the hot mold is released and cooled down, and after
cleaning, grinding and polishing, you will have a definite 10%
(estimated) reduction is total size.

DO NOT estimate the stone size PRIOR to rubber mold making, or
packing. This has to be decided upon in the actual silver “master
design” and initial fabrication. Basically, make all of your master
designs 10% larger.!!! Hope you didn’t get bored with my reply, but
all of these very important details and must be decided and discussed
with the model maker…Gerry Lewy!

3 
Unfortunately I am not able to take your class; but I would like
to ask a question about building wax bezels. Re: "create a perfect
fit" How do you account for shrinkage in the casting process

Once the wax bezel has been formed to the desired height and
thickness the stone is removed and the opening can be very slightly
enlarged by scraping or shaving the inside of the setting with an
exacto knife, file, bur, or graver.

When the stone easily slides in and out and has a small amount of
room to move around in the setting this is sufficient to compensate
for shrinkage. The inside of the setting might require a minimal bit
of clean up or further adjustment to seat the stone after casting in
metal.

Michael David Sturlin

4

Depending on the stone you can use clear tape (scotch type) two or
three wraps will give you the clearance you need.

Don in Idaho snowed all day about 3 in.