what would my steps be? Solder the bezel strip to a back plate,
then trim. Cut a hole in the patterned sheet.....and am not sure
where I would put the solder then?
I do quite a bit of soldering of gold or fine silver bezels to
roller printed or textured sterling. I use balled up pallions
touching both the inside of the bezel and the back plate and heat
until the solder melts and let the capillary action fill in all the
If the solder runs around the inside of the bezel and I stop after
the solder has flowed as much as it will and before the solder starts
running into the pattern and it is not completely soldered all the
way around, I put more solder where needed and reheat. If there is a
significant gap, I put balled up pallions on both sides of the gap
and reheat and when it flows, it meets in the middle.
Problems occur if you overheat the back plate after the solder flows
and draw the solder away from the seam into the pattern with the heat
of the torch. A hot enough bushy flame will give the torch control
needed to do this.
I have cut holes and soldered bezels down into a sheet, but that was
what was needed specifically for that design, not because I was
using a patterned the back plate. I have also soldered bezels to a
back plate and cut away the rest of the outside of the back plate,
put solder on the bottom of the back plate and heat until the bezel
cup is soldered to the patterned surface. But again, it is about what
works best for the design and the effect you want. My experience in
cutting a hole in a back plate for a bezel has been to solder from
the back, turn it over and heat to draw the solder up to the level
of the surface of the back plate, turn over and re-solderand fill in
the seam, repeat until the front and the back are neat and clean
solder seams. No gaps, no pits, no over heating and drawing solder
out of the bezel seam. Again, it is accomplished with control of the
heat of the torch and practice.
Richard Hart G.G.