Most students are afraid of melting things, therefore, they dont
heat their pieces to the point where solder will flow.
this statement is the best thing i have read so far, in fact,
students would be better served if encouraged to melt things on
purpose. then they could be guided by thier instructors how to
learn,use thier own eyes and teach themselves how to observe the
metal at different consecutively increasing temperatures, they could
gain experience of, at what point they were going to ruin somthing
that they are working on. maybe they should do reticulation before
learning to solder, todays instructor is up against a alot when they
realize they first must teach observational skills before they can
teach technique.
May I ask... how does one not re-mobilise the solder in previously
soldered links? Heat control yes... but how? Thanks in advance! (I
have tried a chain with large links, some success but lots of
remelting).
Solder half of the links prior to assembly. Your chain then would
consist of soldered link followed by unsoldered link followed by
soldered link and so on. Pin section of a chain to charcoal block
with
a little tension ( tension must be barely detectable ). Take a
tweezers and arrange all unsoldered links so joints are all in the
same position. I like them facing up. So arrangement is soldered
links are horizontally positioned and unsoldered would be vertical (
nearly so ). Once again, tension must be only to keep this
arrangement
and not a smidgeon more. If more than that, the joint will open when
hot.
Once set up is finished, place a tiny bits of solder on joints.
Position your torch above unsoldered link and point the torch 45
degrees up. When torch lit, the flame should be directed to the space
above the link and not on the link itself.
Any flame consist of 3 zones ( or envelopes ). We are only
interested in outer envelope for this task. It is almost invisible.
Start lowering your torch, maintaining 45 degrees upward angle, until
outer envelope comes in contact with the joint and solder.
Observe flux melting. Once flux becomes liquid, the point of solder
flow is near. When solder flows, stop immediately. If solder balls
up, it means joint is dirty. Stop, pickle the chain, rinse and
repeat.
If solder jumps to one side, the gap is too large, or one side is
heated more than another, or both. The solution is to stop and
correct
the problem. Joint must be tight and clean. Both sides must be heated
evenly. Solder must touch both sides of the joint.
The point of all of this is to keep only portion of the flame in
contact with the link. The rest of the flame is directed away from it
and from the rest of the chain.
What makes chain soldering is so valuable an exercise is that it
teaches about residual heat. In chain soldering, residual heat builds
up to such a degree that it can melt links not been worked on. In
soldering larger pieces, presence of residual heat is not visible,
but it is there. Problem like solder does not flow where we want it
to go and many others are all due to the residual heat. Chain
soldering makes one aware of it and teaches how to control it.
I often teach my students what I have coined the" meringue
"technique.I use my-t-flux with my students (High School)but I think
the process of the flux interacting with the metal is the same for
all types of flux. I ask the students to look for the changes in
color of the metal and in the surface of the flux as I add heat to
the forms. I also "circle the joints to be soldered and DO NOT apply
the flame directly to the solder. Let the flames heat the metal to
the point at which IT melts the solder on your joint.
Make sure all surfaces are flush to each other
Make sure all surfaces to be soldered are clean!!!
When soldering CIRCLE the joint and solder with the correct flame.
When circling the joint look for the FIRST phase. This is when the
flux raises up and looks like meringue, white and frothy just like
egg whites. This is the signal that the metal is approaching the
correct temp. for the flux to flow!! Phase TWO, the flux will lay
down and look like glass, flat,clear and shinny!! When this happens
you will have lift off! Go in for the kill !! The flux should melt
at the joints!! Tickle the joint with the flame if it needs a little
extra help.(But go in and out of the solder quickly so you dont melt
the forms. That is why I say tickle).
Keep an eye on the solder it too will talk to you. Also look for
color changes in the metal you are soldering, it will indicate temp.
ranges for you. Hope this helps.
Remember to CIRCLE your solder with the torch and let the metal melt
the solder at you joint. Let the metal talk to you, look for the
changes in the flux!!
There are really only three reasons why solder does not melt.
Not cleaned properly
Surfaces that are not flush to each other. No light showing
through when they meet.
There are a number of things you need to look out for. First
is…your metal must be very clean…be sure to sand around the
areas to be soldered.
Then apply Pripps flux to the main parts of each piece being
soldered together to preclude fire scale. Set the pieces up so they
are touching…if the join is not a tight fit it it is difficult to
get the solder to flow into the join and between the two sides. Note,
I did not say it is impossible but this can only be accomplished
after gaining lots of experience! Flux the join areas only with a
good flux such as Batterns, Handi-flux or something similar (even
pure borax desolved in alcohol will work) then apply snippets of
solder. If you put the solder on and then flux, it can be thrown off
by the bubbling of the flux…
Now comes the important part. YOU MUST HEAT THE SINK! What is the
sink? Thats the largest part of those being soldered and it must be
brought to critical temperature first. Remember, solder always goes
to the heat…thus, it will go to the side that contains the
highest concentration of heat. If both sides are the same mass, they
must both be heated to the same critical temperature simultaineously.
If one side is hotter than the other, the solder will melt and flow
to that side. When using hard solder on sterling, you will need to
get the entire set up quite hot because hard solder becomes liquidus
only 2-300 deg F below the melting temp of the silver. Bat an eye and
its all gone. ( I suggest you start with medium solder at first) If
the solder balls up but does not flow, it has probably become
oxidized (remember, solder contains more copper to make it flow at a
lower temp and the copper can oxidize)…add a drop of flux and
continue. Do not heat the pieces too long…get in and get
out…otherwise you can overstress the metal and it can sag, distort
or crack. This means you must use the proper adjustment of flame or
size tip. If using Acetylene/air use a slightly larger tip. Yes, I
know, you are afraid of the large flame/heat, but you will get used
to it. Remember, get in and get out…you can only do this with a
larger flame be it a soft reducing or harder oxidizing flame. After
soldering, allow the metal to cool down before quenching in
water…then into the pickle.
Let me know if you still have problems. We can work it out together.
I suggest you get hold of some expendable jewelry or bits and
pieces. Put the torch to it until you see its just about to melt,
oops or maybe it just did. Try to hold it there without it collapsing
into a heap, dont just pour the heat on in one big gulp, play with
it. You will benefit from getting the feel for how much heat is too
much and just where that transition is. How lingering a second longer
or a bit closer effects the work. How much heat a bigger piece can
take and how little a tiny piece takes. You need to learn the point
of no return and feel comfortable flirting with it. Do it over and
over again.
Once you know where disaster lies you will feel more comfortable
bringing the solder joint up to heat efficiently and safely which is
more than half the battle.
I was not sure if the brass was a good or a bad idea. Also, I now
think part of my problem is having only hard solder! I have ordered
some easy and medium, that may help
As another beginner, I made same mistake and forced myself to use
hard solder where ever possible, which has greatly improved my
soldering ability.
I suggest you get hold of some expendable jewelry or bits and
pieces. Put the torch to it until you see its just about to melt,
well, yesterday I went through my jewelry box and took out alll the
sterling silver broken rings and odd earrings and old broken chains
that I have been saving for years. I will melt them with great
pleasure. I have been dying to melt something. thanks!
Ok, as a novice with no where near the experience or skill of some
in our community, I had to respond to this thread… Go for it with
copper, you will never forget it, you never know, you just might
develop a life-long love. Copper can be abused but will scoff it off
as if to say “Huh, that’s the best you got.” At the same time it can
break your heart when one takes too much for granted. A suggestion,
stop by a commercial plumbing shop and see if they are willing to
sell you "scrap, cut-offs, or maybe dented or dinged pieces of pipe
which when annealed, cut open, pounded flat, annealing as needed (you
will feel it, soft copper is feels “like” butter, hard copper will
feel like a spring… it’ll bounce your hammer around) plus they each
“sound” different. If they let you pick through a pile, pick the
biggest diameter and the hardest grade they have, it has a thicker
wall, and you’ll be acquiring skills along the way “forging” you’re
own material.
I offer you a link to my “web-site” http://web.mac.com/saboiam/
Peaceman/web_site_album.html to see the progress (I hope) that I’ve
made… see what you think, it is “three” minutes well spent…
persist and keep wondering- “how do I do…” peace.
Michael. So glad you responded pointing out the marvelous
possibilities of copper. I checked out your web-site, and your work
is
wonderful, ranging from garden art, trellises, and jewelry. Love your
form folded pieces. Thanks to Charles Lewton-Brain, he opened a whole
new area of exploration with form folding of copper. Another
attribute
of copper is that it takes marvelously to patination.
My favorite is just to pop the piece in the toaster oven, for a
gorgeous range of colors. Also, when I made a trellis for my roses, I
used the flux, one uses for lead solder. Where it dribbled down the
copper, it left a gorgeous green patina. So, to capitalize on this, I
painted the flux all over the copp er trellis, and the gorgeous green
has held up now for over 15 years in my garden. Yes, Michael, as you
say, with copper one can "develop a life-long love. "
at home, I have a piece of scrap iron placed across a cookie sheet
atop some concrete pavers. Not ideal.
Three of the basics have been covered well in other posts. My only
additional comment is on flux, a hissy torch is usually oxidizing
(not good). Use a stronger flux like the white paste one (also a
requirement for copper and brass)
The real key is heat, lots of it and controlled. Your soldering
station sounds like the heat sink for a nuclear reactor, and ditch
the concrete pavers. Bad explosive things happen to the water in them
if you get them too hot even in small areas. Soft fire bricks are a
good base with a charcoal block or proper solder pad as a soldering
surface.
I like your idea of kitty litter, cheap to try but use fresh stuff
and cover when not in use because your cat will find it
at home I have a disposable propane torch from the hardware store
(Bernzo-matic Fatboy). It has a hissing, pointy, blue flame- no
bushy flame is possible withthis torch.
Correct me if im wrong but by the looks of it this is a plumbers
setup made for soft soldering copper pipes? Are you sure it has
enough power to complete a basic solder job?
Also you should invest in a charcoal block or asbestos substitute
toplace your items on instead of cat litter. Its probably cheaper
and getting some heat beneath and around your soldering will
definately help you.
thanks all. I got some proper firebricks today, so no more concrete
or cat litter.
While my torch is not ideal, I do believe it has adequate heat when
used properly, as it has worked quite a few times, just not all the
time! I think I will probably buy a basic LPG setup next pay- I
really like nice tools and propane is nasty.
And yes, I actually like working with copper and brass- I really
prefer them aesthetically to silver. No idea why, I just do.
Spent today re-re- organising my workshop, tomorrow will be
soldering practice day!
Ok, as a novice with no where near the experience or skill of some
in our community, I had to respond to this thread.... Go for it
with copper, you will never forget it,
Well, when I said that practicing on copper is a mistake; it should
not be taken like there is something wrong with copper. I am a
traditional jeweler and from traditional jeweler point of view,
copper is useless as a training medium. One can be an absolute
expert in working with copper, but the skills are not transferrable.
The ultimate goal is to work with 18 karat gold. The best material
for training is sterling. It is more difficult to work in sterling
than gold. Once sterling is mastered, gold is very easy.
well, it must have been the effect of all your positive vibes (or
yesterday’s purchase of medium solder and real firebricks)- but
today, my solder flowed, my joints joined again and again, and all
was right with the world. I even went back to hard solder after
having success with medium, and it worked too. Tomorrow I am going to
make a chain, as advised by some of you lovely people.
I think the firebricks made the major difference (that and being
given permission to get the metal a lot hotter than I probably was
before)- as before, I was working on a metal surface that must have
been cooling very quickly. I think I will have another go with
sterling now (that I am not blasting holes in everything I touch?).
I have another related question, which I will start a new thread
for, I hope that is ok.
copper is useless as a training medium. One can be an absolute
expert in working with copper, but the skills are not
transferrable. The ultimate goal is to work with 18 karat gold. The
best material for training is sterling. It is more difficult to
work in sterling than gold. Once sterling is mastered, gold is very
easy.
Wow, I never thought I’d elicit a response from you, Mr. Surpin but I
must humbly contest your assertion " but the skills are not
transferrable". They are that is how one learns and develops the
skill, by building on what was previously learned. you end by stating
“Once sterling is mastered, gold is very easy”, is this not
transferring a skill learned with one metal and adapting to the new:
silver to gold? No offense at all in choosing metals, I have come to
“appreciate” silver, Argentium, and have “learned” that my experience
in copper did not translate to 22ga silver wire, I still applied my
previously learned skills to develop a new set. Also, I do read your
every post, don’t always agree, but you seem like an “interesting
cookie” and I’d like to sit and pick your brains someday. Last but
not least, thank you for noticing and commenting. peace.
I don’t mean to be contentious for its own sake, but I think this
statement could be misleading. Working with gold is NOT like working
with silver, and it is “easy” only once you have mastered the
differences. And working with 14k (I know you said 18k) is especially
challenging because of its low melting point.
To me, the greatest difference is that when you heat gold, the heat
stays right where you put it (unlike silver) so although this makes
spot-heating easy, it also means it is very easy to melt the spot you
are heating. This takes quite a bit of getting used to, especially if
your skills were learned on silver. Plus, gold solders move very
differently from silver solders.
So, though I cannot see a better way to prepare for learning gold
than learning silver (unless you can afford to just learn on
gold–hah!), I would not want anyone to think that after learning to
solder silver, you can just shift to gold and sail on through.
I do encourage anyone who is just starting to work with gold to
screw up your courage and your checkbook and use 18k. You are, IMO,
much more likely to waste your efforts with 14k by melting it,
costing more in the long run. And 18k is SO much prettier anyway!
I am surprised that working with gold is supposed to be easy once
sterling is mastered. I has not been that way for me.
I made the transition from brass and copper to silver with no
problems. However, making the transition from silver to gold proved
to be quite difficult. As Noel points out the two metals are so
different in the way they respond to heat that it took a lot of
getting used to, and I still find myself burning holes mainly
because gold solders are so different from silver solders.
Well done on finally getting your solder flowing, it certainly is
something to be proud of when you start to get the hang of this.
Clean solder joints can make the rest of your jewellery making much
easier, just keep practicing!
If you are serious about making jewellery, and are located in
sydney, I would highly recommended enrolling at the Enmore TAFE. The
skills you would learn at a place like this are invaluable, as well
as having some clever teachers, this is where apprentices do their
training, a lot of whom can teach some very interesting techniques.
Maybe you should also consider upgrading to a LPG/Oxygen torch, a
larger reducing flame would help with your silver soldering.
As I was soldering jump rings yesterday, it occurred to me to
mention here something that may be obvious to others, but not to a
beginner.
We tend to solder in low light so as to see the shifting glow of the
heated metal, but in low light, detail is harder to discern, and
those jump ring seams can be pretty small. My soldering has improved
a lot since I began using a little magnification. Now I can really
see the solder move.
I’m using 1.5x magnifiers clipped onto my regular glasses. At first,
I didn’t like the unfamiliar field of view, so I practised going
thru the motions with the torch off. I’ve developed habits of how &
where I hold the lighted torch when I’m in between tasks. For joining
a series of jump rings, I arrange the work in cross-lock tweezers,
pick up the torch, move my head until the joint is in perfect view,
and then introduce the flame to the joint. Excellent ventilation is
imperative for working this close to heated flux & metals. As I
write this I’m thinking it might also be wise to wear a face
protection shield.
As many others have affirmed, lots of practise really pays off.
As Noel points out the two metals are so different in the way they
respond to heat that it took a lot of getting used to, and I still
find myself burning holes mainly because gold solders are so
different from silver solders.
They are different, but the differences are in heat conduction, and
in structural strength of metals. If you can do it in silver,
executing it in gold is easier.
However, simply practicing on silver is not enough to be prepared to
work with gold. The exercises must be structured with this goal in
mind.
