I have heard of a firescale preventative called argotec that
consist of boric acid and other things, is dissolved in
denatured alcohol, and is painted on with a brush.
G’day; it sounds to me that your ‘Argotec’ is so similar to
Pripps flux that the difference wouldn’t be important. Many people
have a wide mouthed plastic vessel with an airtight lid
containing a saturated solution of boric acid (HBO3) in ethanol
(meth spirits, denatured alcohol) into which they immerse their
job, remove it, COVER THE VESSEL!! Then set fire to it . (The
job, not the vessel.) The alcohol burns with a pale green flame,
and finally leaves a white deposit of boric acid over the job.
Because the solution is saturated - there’s crystals of boric
acid in the bottom of the vessel - the process can be repeated to
build a thicker, even coat. This is an excellent firestain
preventer and is also a good flux. I have used this for years,
and unless the heating is prolonged, it reallyworks (as said on
I would find this much easier than the pripps method.
I also use Pripps flux at times. This also contains boric acid
(I make up my own) and it gives a very similar result to the
boric-alcohol business. Pripps flux (Why do I keep having to
correct f;ux? There might be something psyc about that) also
contains phosphates, and is particularly useful where it is
important that tiny paillons of solder don’t fly around. Pripps
flux doesn’t bubble anything near so much as other fluxes upon
Where can you get it or how do you make it?
You buy boric acid (it used to be called boracic acid) from what
people of recent British heritage call Chemist Shops, and what I
believe Americans call drug stores or pharmacies. Chemist Shops
don’t sell soda pop or ice cream sundaes, however. B-) Cheers,
/ /__| \ @John_Burgess2
At sunny Nelson NZ (in mid-winter but we’re getting snowdrops,
narcissi and other blooming flowers, tra la. But they’ve nothing to do with
the case because they’re a bit early yet)