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Argotec?


#1

I have heard of a firescale preventative called argotec that
consist of boric acid and other things, is dissolved in
denatured alcohol, and is painted on with a brush. I would find
this much easier than the pripps method. Are any of you
familiar with this stuff? Where can you get it or how do you
make it?

Marshall Jones


#2
I have heard of a firescale preventative called argotec that
consist of boric acid and other things, is dissolved in
denatured alcohol, and is painted on with a brush. 

G’day; it sounds to me that your ‘Argotec’ is so similar to
Pripps flux that the difference wouldn’t be important. Many people
have a wide mouthed plastic vessel with an airtight lid
containing a saturated solution of boric acid (HBO3) in ethanol
(meth spirits, denatured alcohol) into which they immerse their
job, remove it, COVER THE VESSEL!! Then set fire to it . (The
job, not the vessel.) The alcohol burns with a pale green flame,
and finally leaves a white deposit of boric acid over the job.
Because the solution is saturated - there’s crystals of boric
acid in the bottom of the vessel - the process can be repeated to
build a thicker, even coat. This is an excellent firestain
preventer and is also a good flux. I have used this for years,
and unless the heating is prolonged, it reallyworks (as said on
TV)

     I would find this much easier than the pripps method. 

I also use Pripps flux at times. This also contains boric acid
(I make up my own) and it gives a very similar result to the
boric-alcohol business. Pripps flux (Why do I keep having to
correct f;ux? There might be something psyc about that) also
contains phosphates, and is particularly useful where it is
important that tiny paillons of solder don’t fly around. Pripps
flux doesn’t bubble anything near so much as other fluxes upon
heating.

Where can you get it or how do you make it? 

You buy boric acid (it used to be called boracic acid) from what
people of recent British heritage call Chemist Shops, and what I
believe Americans call drug stores or pharmacies. Chemist Shops
don’t sell soda pop or ice cream sundaes, however. B-) Cheers,

       / \
     /  /
   /  /
 /  /__| \      @John_Burgess2
(______ )       

At sunny Nelson NZ (in mid-winter but we’re getting snowdrops,
narcissi and other blooming flowers, tra la. But they’ve nothing to do with
the case because they’re a bit early yet)


#3

I attended a workshop where we were taught to use a solution of
one part boric acid and one part denatured alcohol to prevent
firescale. Dip the piece in the solution and let it dry or heat
it gently until it turns white. You still use flux on the joints
to be soldered. This stuff worked great!


#4

Pripps flux works way better than boric acid and alcohol. The
boric fails at high temperature used in silver soldering. Pripps
can be coated on fairly heavily with a mouth atomizer you can buy
in any art supply store.Heat the piece mildy, spray the Pripps on
and heat again and spray some more on. Pripps is easy to make and
alot cheaper too. If you do silver work and solder a piece many
times like I do, there’s no absolute cure for firescale but
diligent use of Pripps will keep it way down so most of it
polishes off easily. If you need the formula let me
know…Dave

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#5

Pripps will keep it way down so most of it polishes off easily.
If you need the formula let me know.

I wanna know, Dave! I know I’ve seen the formula before, but
your endorsement makes me want to try!

Dave

Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio
Charlotte, NC (USA)
dave@sebaste.com
http://www.sebaste.com


#6

Painting on is better… allows you to control the location …
the solution, as john, suggested, is also a pretty good flux…
however, because of control … where flux goes so 'duth the
solder … I use a hyprodumeric needle with a yellow liquid flux
. . (not going to get into that one again!!!, therefore, a flux
of your choice !!!) which allows excellent control.

Jim