Anyone use a scroll saw?

Hi All, The Cutie Pie, as previously mentioned is frequently demonstrated
around here, the Dealers are somewhat local. I have seen some incredibly
intricate work done on it and quickly.

It was beyond my wallet to buy and a friend told me the Diamond Band Saw
sold by Harbor Freight for $149.00 works quite well. Perhaps someone on
line has tried this and could further comment.



If you use any type of reciprocating saw to cut metal a lubricated blade
helps, it’s almost a necessity.

One way to lub the blade is with a lubricant saturated felt (or other
thick material) block. Attach the block to the machine so it remains
stationary and contacts the saw blade at the top portion of the blade.
Since you’re all metal smiths, fabricating a suitable holder to attach the
block to the machine shouldn’t be a problem. Use a light weight oil. Taylor
Mfg. (Cuti Pi maker) recommends Marvel Mystery Oil, it comes it small, 3
oz, cans.

A felt block can be cut from a suitably sized polishing wheel.


Hi.Re the diamond band saw rom Harbor Freight-- A friend got one and I had
a chance to use it just a bit. It is great for opals, and for sawing the
backing between opals when you have a bunch you’ve epoxied to a larger
sheet of backing, and other soft stuff like turquoise. I don’t know how it
would work on harder things. Liked it well enough that I got one for
myself; haven’t had a chance to do any experimenting yet.


I have a Hawk 260 and I love it. You have a wonderful piece of equipment
there. Try this. When using a scroll saw to cut metal, sandwich the sheet
metal inbetween two pieces of 1/4" plywood using double stick tape, it will
make it much easier to do. Also use a slower speed on the saw and of
course, a metal cutting blade which has been lubricated with bees wax or
soap. Hope this helps. Cat Dancing

Hi Marlo - I’ve only used one once, but someone suggested mounting your
metal pieces onto a piece of wood for stability first. Try using small
brads or rubber cement. Let me know if this works OK? Wendy

In real estate its “location, location, location.” With scroll saws, in
my experience, its “technique, technique, technique.” As numerous folks
have mentioned, most important is not to force the work and to select an
appropriate blade and speed for the particular work. Still, using these
machines is an art on its own…

I have been using a cadillac of a machine for some years, an Excalibur
EX-19. Wonderful machine–has a stroke from 0-1650 per minute, so hand
sawing can be mimicked. Also has an extremely fast blade change mechanism
(I started with a Dremel which was a total pain). Just loosen and
tighten. Great for inner cuts, just lift the arm, put blade through work
and tighten. It ranked over the Hegner I tried, and the Hegner’s speed at
400 strokes per minute was too fast for much metal work. Specs on this
machine are at: and
Marty R.

Hi Marlo - I've only used one once, but someone suggested mounting your
metal pieces onto a piece of wood for stability first.  Try using small
brads or rubber cement.  Let me know if this works OK?   

Hi Wendy, The most I’ve tried is rubber cementing some flat cardboard
(backing off of writing tablets) to my metal…with not much success. I’ve
heard (and read) about sandwiching the metal between wood to make things
"easier", but, I was hoping I could avoid getting into buying more
supplies for this kind of job! Keeping a supply of plywood around doesn’t
appeal to me at all…LOL

I do appreciate all of the wonderful advice everyone has written on this
thread! I’ve gotten a lot of great info from everyone!! Thank you!!!

Marlo M.

Hi Gang,

Keeping a supply of plywood around doesn't appeal to me at all.<<. 

You could also use masonite, its less expensive & comes in 1/8" thick
material that has one extremely smooth surface.