When raising a circular object will it work to solder the ends
together before starting the process?
I am an old Silver and Gold smith trying to learn a new (or not so
new) trick. I want to know if there is a problem with soldering the
ends together when making an anti clastic raised bracelet. I fully
expect to cut it apart after the raising process. Will this help to
maintain a rounder shape?
Alburn Sleeper
The Aurora Silversmith
I think that the problem will be whether the “ring” will fit around
your stake and how fast you stretch or gather up the metal. What
gage and metal are you using? Marilyn Smith
soldering the ends together when making an anti clastic raised bracelet.
I think you will have problems if you solder the ends together. One
being you will not be able to ‘twist’ metal out of the way to hammer
the anticlast properly, .If, for instance, your making a round hollow
tapered bangle. How would you get the round shape?(meaning the
generator curve) Also how would you close the peice at ‘open’ seam to
a taper?..Holding the ends with fingers is how I learned from M.
Good. But I guess it coudn’t hurt to try with some sterling…might
learn something to pass on to us(!) Thomas Blair
I would recommend that you get a book called “Form Emphasis for
Metalsmiths”, published in 1978 by Kent State University Press. The
author is Heikki Seppa. He was one of the principle developers and
organizers of the reticulation, rollprinting, and shell structures
techniques for contemporary metalsmithing. He taught (or still
teaches) metalsmithing at the Washington University School of Fine
Arts in St Louis. He does workshops around the country and abroad. I
have the book and I’m very happy with it. The book will give you lots
of tips and techniques but nothing will be better than hammering some
metal. (and it’s super inexpensive). In the meantime, why not grab a
hunk of copper and hammer out your idea? Solder the ends. Don’t
solder the ends. You just need to get in there and get a relationship
going with the metal and it will show you what it can and can’t do
and why. If you know the basics then you can go from there. Look at
an experiment not as time lost and costs driven higher in the
production of a piece, but rather as time invested in learning your
craft. Go for it.
Marilyn, Thanks for your reply. I am thinking in terms of bracelet
for now and my metal gauge is between 26 and 27. Any suggestions
would help. I am a chaser by trade and have done mostly Arts and
Crafts things similar to that done by the Roycroft Copper Shop in
the early 1900’s. I hope this will be fun. Al.
Thomas, Thanks for your reply. I had a little trouble with
distortion the first time (to be expected I guess). I am a chaser by
trade and have done mostly Arts and Crafts things similar to that
done by the Roycroft Copper Shop in the early 1900’s. I hope this
will be fun. Al.
I am exploring anticlastic raising and fold-forming. Get lots of
copper and go to it. Experimenting is the key to learning. Another
helpful book is “Metals Technic” ISBN 0-9615984-7-6.
The article by Michael Good is most helpful. There also was an
article by Heikki Seppa on anticlastic raising a bracelet in
Lapidary Journal several years ago. Check their archives.
If you are going to do the bracelet in Sterling, I would hard solder
the joint. The higher silver content will make for a more flexible
seam. I find that this helps when I fill and bend spiculums. If you
are using gold, I would use a hard solder for the same reason. My
goal is to hammer up a Rhyton (drinking vessel) from sheet instead
of using a “cow” horn. Any input on this idea would be most
appreciated.
I look forward to the day when I can take a class with Mr. Good. I
have pictures of his work tacked to the walls like WWII pinups!
Fun is hammering out a hyperbolic paraboloid. A great thing to try
on a dateless Saturday night.
Please keep us posted on your progress. This technique takes
practice but opens up so many design possibilities.
Bill at earthspeak@aol.com
Hi Al,
As another poster said, go ahead and solder to see what will happen.
What you will find is, due to the expansion of the metal when
hammering, the arc of your piece will increase. That’s fine if you
are making a simple bangle bracelet, just start out with a shorter
piece than needed for the size you want. If you are doing a more
complicated design that rotates in angles, you will need to have the
piece unsoldered. As you learn how to hold the piece and get
stronger, you will learn to manipulate it to the desired arcs and
turns. As mentioned, Heikki Seppa’s book is great. Two other books
with projects that include anticlastic bracelets by Michael Good
aRe: Metals Technic, edited by Tim McCreight and The Art of Jewelry
Making by Alan Revere.
happy hammering, Marta
That gage sounds a little thin. Roofing copper is about 23 gage and
is a good material to practice on. Do you have a serpentine stake? If
you don’t, you can use a wood dowel and file the basic curvature on
it. The trick is not to just bash the metal down into the groove. The
idea is to condense it or to stretch it depending on the direction
you want the sideways curve to go. If you just bash, you will have
ripples and cracks that you can not smooth. If you can get the book
mentioned, it will give you a lot of It helps a lot if
you can see an demonstration.
Marilyn
I really agree with this advice. Not only do I have the book but I
was lucky enough to be in one of his workshops years ago. Super
teacher but I don’t know if he still teaches.
Marilyn Smith