Recently there was a post concerning the soldering of (jump)
rings. I believe the issue was how to ensure the two parts to be
soldered are tight fitting and clean.
I solder (braze) sterling silver all day every day, 5 or 6 days a
week. I have tarnished sterling jump rings and tarnished solder.
I use Stay silv white brazing flux from a welding supply shop. I
align both ends of the jump ring, flux, and solder. I have an
occasional pit in a solder joint that I have to redo, but but not
Occasionally the solder jumps to one side of the joint, and I use a
pick to move the solder across the joint.
I believe the largest source of soldering problems is how hot the
flame from the torch is. Bushy flame, large enough to heat of both
sides of the joint by moving the torch side to side is most
Sometimes on thick sterling rings with stones in them, stone in
water, I use a rosebud torch that can be used to melt 10 ounces of
sterling. I am talking about massive heat, and it takes 1-2 seconds,
and you better be off the joint before you see the solder flow, or
the shank melts. I do not have pits in these joints. The problem with
developing complex solutions is that your problems will meet the need
you create in relationship to what your mind perceives the problem to
be. Sometimes the solution is very simple, you perceive it to be
complicated, and act accordingly.
We sell hundreds of sterling pieces a week that are made overseas.
Occasionally there are solder problems, pits or cold solder joints.
But, basically, these people do not have the all the crap we have to
solve problems with, and they do good work with less sophisticated
equipment and methods.
Richard Hart G.G.