Back to Ganoksin | FAQ | Contact

Alternative setting method


#1

Some advice has been given on the rubover or gypsy stone setting
method on a flat or domed area I would like to offer a couple of
different methods I recommend. Instead of burring a hole for a stone
in a flat plate then using a hammer handpiece to move metal around
the edge of the stone which is a method I find to be more time
intensive and can affect the smoothness of the metal . Take a burr
slightly larger than the stone and take the sharpness off the
cutting blades with a bit of fine carborundum or silicon carbide
paper (this will take a little trial and error to get right) . The
burr being a bit blunt and now a bit smaller than it was when sharp
will force a bit of metal to raise up around the outside of the
stone hole which once the stone has been placed in at a height with
the table just below surface of metal can be burnished or pressed
down onto edge of stone. It is important for the stone to be a
tight fit as it goes in. Then instead of using a flat graver to
bright cut around the edge take about a number 8 (about 1mm wide)
half round graver properly sharpened and polished and use it to
burnish the metal further onto the edge of stone . Apply it at about
a 60 to 70 degree angle to metal with tip almost touching stone (be
careful with soft stones) and while pushing down on edge of metal
rotate the piece and graver at same time in opposite directions .If
you are right handed turn piece anti-clockwise and graver clockwise.
All the while keeping the graver in line with the radius or keeping
it pointed towards the centre of stone. This enables you to get a
nice smooth curved finish as well as tightening the stone . No need
to bright cut if your graver has been sharpened and polished well. I
also use this method on other types of rubover or bezel setting, it
ensures no gaps between stone and metal . I find both these methods
to be a lot better when working with fragile stones like emeralds as
a hammer handpiece can make a piece vibrate a lot and it is possible
to break a stone before you even get near it. If you do have to use
a hammer handpiece and the stone is rattling around a bit before you
get it tight rub a tiny little bit of bees wax around in between
stone and metal this will keep it still. The blunt burr trick can
be a bit tricky to get right at first so I suggest you test it out
on some scrap first. the blades on the burr need to be quite rounded
so they work like little burnishes instead of cutting. Pre-burr the
hole a little first with a sharp burr about .5 to .6 mm smaller than
hole required. Hope you have understood this. That’s all for now. Any
questions ?