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Accurate pattern for an anticlastic ring?

Hey everyone-

I’m taking a synclastic/anticlastic forming class right now. I’ve
been wanting to make an anticlastic ring forever and have been
working on my first attempt. It’s going ok, but I’m thinking there
must be a more accurate way to make a pattern.

My two issues are:

  1. How do I account for the shrinkage (for lack of a better word)
    that the forming will cause so that the ring isn’t too small? So how
    do I make an accurately sized pattern to account for the forming?

  2. How do I judge what a good width will be for the pattern? My
    first attempt was about twice as wide as it should have been and was
    uncomfortable to wear so I wound up sawing off two large pieces.

I’m not sure if it matters, but just in case… The rings that I’m
trying to make are wider over the finger and tapered towards the
back (the side that rests next to the palm of your hand). I made a
sinusoidal stake, but it’s two large for more than the first or
second course, so most of my forming is done on delrin with a metal
cross-peen hammer.

Thanks so much for your help!!


Mollie -

On page 123 of Alan Revere’s “The Art of Jewelry Making” there is an
article by by Michael Good with a pattern for an open seam bracelet.
If this were scanned and downsized it might serve as a pattern for a


I make samples and patterns of those samples for all my anticlastic
pieces. I use NuGold or red brass to work up the samples because it
behaves similar to silver in the forming process. Patternmaking
enables you to know where you’ve been so you can alter and go forth
and tweak the design further. You can make an anticlastic stake from
a drift pin from Sears or Ace Hardware that is small enough to create
the rings.