A Poll for our community

Jewelry Discussion
21

A poll ( of sorts) about you…

  1. How long have you been at the bench?

53 years in a few days…, (1964 is when I started)

  1. Do you make your living doing bench work?

Yes, to some degree.
I also lecture and consult on developing production projects for others in the industry.

  1. Do you work for a retail jeweler?
    Only by commission, I have no direct tie to any particular retailer.

5 . Do you work for yourself?

Yes. J.Grahl Design was founded as an entity about 1969, though I still worked for my original employer (Cooper and Schuber) until 1970.

  1. Do you do both? ( outside / side work)?

It’s all kind of the same package now. I just work…

  1. How did you start your training?

Cooper and Schuber, (City of Commerce a suburb of Los Angeles), took a leap of faith on a young guy.
I swept floor, knocked out flasks ann eventually went through all the steps from casting to clean-up/polishing shipping etc…
They were an outsource shop for Van Cleef and Arpels, One of my early tasks was mold making and I began doing their work which had me make deliveries to their shop several times a week (we also did their platinum casting). Maurice Tache’ was the manager and a really great man. He took a liking to me and set me up with Gerardo Teranova as an apprentice pave’ setter, things moved quickly from there with Maurice setting me up with other clients and it’s never stopped.
(there is more to come on this, The links between Van Cleefs, Russer, Pierre Tourainne and the Kazanjian Family were very close . There were others of note, Gumps in San Francisco, Andrew Sarosi among others.
I will do a story on the memories and a map of sorts on early Los Angeles’ jewelry community and the links and ties of that era.

  1. How do you continue your training?

Observation, experimenting, trying short and long cuts on just about every project. I use CAD by outsourcing to Mark Maxwell, Don Ross and Varna Platinum, but not so much for our custom projects, more for the production and consulting projects for outside manufacturers.
I watch youtube and look very closely at other’s work when at the shows. Setting is still a great fascination of mine and I love to see work well done and new techniques.

9 Do you see yourself as a designer?

Yes, that is my primary role

  1. Do you see yourself as having a viable and profitable future in this business?

Got me this far… and , yes, I’ll do this till the earth comes calling…

  1. What skill sets will improve your financial future?

Actually practicing CAD would really help.
I would like to do some teaching, maybe through this site. I’ve been looking at the formats that convey information well. I’m not sold on Video (though elements and voice overs are useful) but as one who wants to learn, I am looking more at a series of stills so one can stop and examine the elements of the craft being taught. I’m really open to suggestion here.

  1. Who sets standards to whom you aspire?

Cartier especially 30’s work. Of course Van Cleefs, Tiffany (early) and many of the European makers .
I’m all attracted to 1800’s pieces, silver over gold and the art of the azure…

In what manner, do you see Ganokskin, as a community, forwarding your skills?

Sharing, written observations, photography, sketches of any sort. I embrace Ganoskin because it brings old and new together. It doesn’t require a particular set of skills or expertise in order to participate, in fact, that is probably the true value, allowing the skilled and the ones working on developing skills have a common and non judgmental meeting ground.

Do you see the value in expanding the Ganokskin skill base?

Absolutely. That is how I learn at least, seeing skill sets yet to be mastered , being exposed to new approaches, unsullied by tradition (coming from a traditionalist…).
There are skills yet to be broached, Watch cases, both restoring and making, machining of small scale parts, mechanical movement and it’s accomplishment (and great thanks to the Dragon-master on the evolution of those wonderful photo journeys)

How do you suggest this be accomplished?

Ask people to look, join, spread the word. To me, this is the Google (in Making) of the bench jewelers encyclopedia.
I can see an I pad, or the like, next to every jewelers bench, the answer waiting on some project that needs attention.

Thanks,
Jim

22

  1. Off and on as a committed amateur since 1987 - 29 years. Found working a my bench with my hands was an excellent stress reliever from a high pressure corporate job.

  2. No … not a vocation for me. Rather an avocation. Now retired from corporate life, I am getting much more time at my bench.

  3. No … do not work for a retail jeweler

  4. (There is no 4th question)

  5. Yes … all my work is for my wife and family.

  6. No, I do not do both

  7. Started with a stone setting class at Revere back in 1987. Continued with classes and workshops in Atlanta, Fredrick, Maryland and working with my Dad (an amateur enamelist, plaque a jour and silversmith). Books, books, DVDs, professional jewelry critiques of my work and listening to their feedback and suggestions. I looked to build my craftsmanship in each city that my corporate job took me always looking to be better with each piece and to add a new element of challenge into the effort. Along the way, I have made many mistakes in attempting a piece but after making several copper or brass models eventually figuring how to make that price, I do it in mostly 18 kt gold. Generally I am most productive in the winter when the sailboat is winterized.

  8. Continued training is workshops and getting connected at our local Midwest Metalsmiths Group. Recently, YouTube has some very interesting videos … it’s nice to see others working at the benchpin… often I see different ways to skin the same cat. Also, this forum has been a great resource … seeing work in the gallery and other craftspeople’s bench set ups and the opportunity to ask questions in the forum.

  9. I am in this craft as a challenge to become the best craftsman from a technical standpoint that I can be. My standards are set by the best representatives of the craft that I can access. Initially, I saw work done by Faberge and I thought … could I ever do something like that? Over time, I have seen high end quality and set my sights on that as a standard. Am I there yet? Nope, not by a long shot… but I’m better today than I was last year and with more time at my bench and more time being critiqued by fellow craftspeople, I’ll continue to grow.

The value in Ganoksin is the ability for serious craftspeople committed to sharing the sense of what constitutes real Quality and craftsmanship in this trade and in sharing how to “get there”. A worldwide technical resource promoting excellence and the knowledge known by those that have practiced this craft for many years and by those that have passed before us. I have learned so much from you guys here … just reading the discussions, debates and from asking questions. I am amazed at the willingness of the talent and experience represented on this forum to share experience and to give advice to those sincerely interested in learning or filling in a small gap in their repitoire. At least that’s how I am seeing this great forum.

I think a great way to expand the value of this forum is to have a posting of workshops coming up in the future. I have been surprised too many times that a workshop happened near me or one that I would have traveled to participate in … but that it had already happened. This is a great forum to communicate ahead of time where these opportunities to develop are coming up. This could be accomplished with a simple links page that the different places hosting the workshop could use to publicize their events. There are metalsmith groups all over the country … but you have to surf all their sites to hear what’s going on. Most of these groups have a volunteer public outreach person … they just need a place to create a link.

Thanks for asking these questions … I like reading how others came into this field of endeavor.

Paul Cobet

23

Thank you Paul for such a clear perspective on yourself and your future intentions.
The concept of a metal smiths’ workshop calendar that would give sufficient advance notice of workshops is really a goal worth putting into reality. What are your thoughts on having that happen?
Thanks for adding your “self” to our growing collective.
Best,
Jim

24

Jim,

Thanks for sharing your work over on the Gallery. Beautiful and inspiring.

Love all of it, but the shipwreck work is particularly interesting to me.

25

Hi Trish,
Thanks again for working with the poll, and, thank you very much for the feedback on the shipwreck work.
There is more to come…
Best,
Jim

26

Any possibility of getting Jo to jump in???
Thanks, Jim

27

Sure.
A poll ( of sorts) about you…

  1. How long have you been at the bench?
    47 years
  2. Do you make your living doing bench work?
    I have for all of my adult life. Slowing down now and teaching more.
  3. Do you work for a retail jeweler?
    Wholesale only Private clients and a couple of galleries.
    5 . Do you work for yourself?
    For both myself and my husband Timothy Green
  4. Do you do both? ( outside / side work)?
    All in house
  5. How did you start your training?
    1 month of a jewelry class in High School and then got an early release from HS and sent to the U of O to study under the beloved Max Nixon.
  6. How do you continue your training?
    I was a liturgical and repair silversmith and then moved to Portland Or to train in a union shop. I served a 5 year apprentice ship. I was the first and only female bench worker in the Union and a first at every job I took.
    9 Do you see yourself as a designer?
    Yes
  7. Do you see yourself as having a viable and profitable future in this business?
    Ha! I’m doing my best to retire.
  8. What skill sets will improve your financial future?
    Learning to be a better teacher.
  9. Who sets standards to whom you aspire?
    I do. When ever I make something myself or look at other’s work I think to myself "In 50 years will this be scrap or sold at a fine auction house like Sotheby’s or Chrstie’s. Also Tim and I can be brutal with each other’s work. “You didn’t line up the facets with the prongs on that stone. You missed a pit.”

In what manner, do you see Ganokskin, as a community, forwarding your skills?
Even after 47 years I learn something new every day.

Do you see the value in expanding the Ganokskin skill base?
Yes.

How do you suggest this be accomplished?
Heck if I know. I’m just a bench monkey who likes to spout off every once in a while.

Thank you for considering this inquiry .
Jim Grahl

28

You’re too cool.
Thanks Jo, Your (and Timothy’s) work has set a standard few will reach, but I wish all to aspire to.
Thanks again for being so generous and playful in your sharing.
Best to ya.
Make more…
J

29

I started at the bench of my garage floor hammering copper wire. I was 16,
I am 65 now.
I work in a jewelry store as a goldsmith.
I used to work mostly for myself doing art fairs, this is because of being
a ‘stay at home’ mom.
I worked part time for a jeweler and now I am full time.
I had metalsmithing in college, but we did not have a major at that time.
I took workshops and classes whenever I could. I am a GIA Diamond
graduate, I never finished color stones…decided I did not want to do
appraisals and didnt need the Certification. I have taken Kate Wolf’s wax
carving…many different seminars through GIA at the Tuscon show.
Am I a designer? Hmmmm, not sure how to answer. I quess I am since I
have made my own lines for art fairs and I
design when a customer needs a piece and they are not sure what they
want, but I am not at the level of Jim Grahl.!
A profitable future? If I were younger…there are things I would do to
increase my abilities…CAD CAM, etc but I am close to retiring now.
who sets standards? Wow! There are so many great artists out there! One
of the jewelers who impressed me early on was Alan Revere. Henry
Dunay…was fortunate to meet him at a JCK show in New York…there are
too many to mention!!
I am also from the ‘old school’ of handcrafting, altho I did mention
CADCAM, I think there is a joy in making something with your own hands.
Putting in your own marks and irregularities that make it unique. Not sure
where this world will go in the jewelry industry. Hopefully Ganoksin can
promote the talents and training of all of us.
Mary Dunker

30

  1. I’ve been working with silver since the mid 1970s.

  2. No. A secondary income which my wife and I hope to retire into.

  3. No.

5 . Yes

  1. N/A

  2. Took a silversmith class in adult ed.

  3. Trial and error plus lots of good advice from Orchid plus some mentoring from kind experts.

9 Not really.

  1. Like I said. Hopefully some retirement income.

  2. Marketing.

  3. Laloma.

In what manner, do you see Ganokskin, as a community, forwarding your skills?

Always someone out there who has a better idea.

Do you see the value in expanding the Ganokskin skill base?

Yes.

How do you suggest this be accomplished?

Somehow acknowledge the known masters so we can slow down some of the PMC experts from talking down to the true masters. This hasn’t happened recently but in the past there have been some misguided individuals.

Respectfully,

Rick Copeland

31

My answers. . .

  1. How long have you been at the bench? approx 15 years (professionally)

  2. Do you make your living doing bench work? Used to (mid forties neurological issues happened.)

  3. Do you work for a retail jeweler? At one point, yes

5 . Do you work for yourself? Yes.

  1. Do you do both? ( outside / side work)? Mostly not anymore. I work making fun stuff and research.

  2. How did you start your training? Because of a hobby. And I wanted to teach myself patience. Really. I SUCKED at this. Who knew I could learn this stuff? The first time someone offered me money to make something for them I asked if they were drunk.

  3. How do you continue your training? GIA. Reading. Ganoksin. Research. Very geeky stuff. Historical jewelry manufacturing and construction, techniques & processes. I probably have the largest library of books about jewelry, the trade, and the decorative arts outside of a university in at least Wisconsin. Maybe the Midwest. Several hundred books, videos, tapes and other items.

9 Do you see yourself as a designer? Somewhat. I am not very artistic. But I am really good at repairing stuff. That is kinda a different type of artistry.

  1. Do you see yourself as having a viable and profitable future in this business? I did. Then health. . .

  2. What skill sets will improve your financial future? Learning CAD design. I can still push keys just fine.

  3. Who sets standards to whom you aspire? Many of the jewelers here on Ganoksin, the great artists and jewelers of the past. The Falize brothers, Faberge, Tiffany, Fred Fenster, Cellanni, The list goes on and on.

In what manner, do you see Ganokskin, as a community, forwarding your skills? In the past I have learned many new things by being part of this community.

Do you see the value in expanding the Ganokskin skill base? Define “Skill Base”. I worry about trying to spread the forum too much. If we become the place that loses focus and we start to welcome every type of art like scrapbooking and making shrinky-dinks in your oven (remember those?), then we will die from our attempt to include everyone.
As long as we stay focused on the trade as a general rule, I say sure. A skill base is a great idea.

How do you suggest this be accomplished? I will leave that to people better versed in that area.

Gerald A. Livings
Livingston Jewelers

http://www.ganoksin.com/benchtube/users/GeraldLivings

32

A poll ( of sorts) about you…Jon Michael Fuja Jon Michael’s Jewelers and Fayrick Mfg. Inc.

  1. How long have you been at the bench? About 40 years.

  2. Do you make your living doing bench work? Yes, since I opened my retail store in 1979. I then bought a small manufacturing business in 1980 and have done both wholesale and retail since then.

  3. Do you work for a retail jeweler? Yes, me.
    5 . Do you work for yourself? Yes

  4. Do you do both? ( outside / side work)? The wholesale part has reduced until almost completely gone. Sold to wholesalers throughout the country, but they have gone the same route as the typewriter companies.

  5. How did you start your training? Self-teaching silver jewelry manufacturing as a hobby. Found I had an Uncle in the jewelry manufacturing business and went to him to learn. Later several GIA courses, and of course a lot of trial and error.

  6. How do you continue your training? One of my employees is a former training facilitator for Stuller, so I do learn from him when I lack a skill. He co-authored a book titled “At The Bench”, which is available through Amazon I believe.
    9 Do you see yourself as a designer? Just a small part of the total picture.

  7. Do you see yourself as having a viable and profitable future in this business? I am on the downhill side of the “future”, so no not really. I expect to close both businesses within a year or so.

  8. What skill sets will improve your financial future? If I were younger, then cad/cam by all means.

  9. Who sets standards to whom you aspire? Years ago I always compared myself to my Uncle, Fred Kuczajda. He was one of the original owners of Motif Mfg. in Detroit, MI, then went on to start his own small manufacturing company in 1959. Today it would be Jim Grahl, more than anyone I have ever known. I have kept all the photos you have sent out and look at them from time to time.

In what manner, do you see Ganokskin, as a community, forwarding your skills? The depth of talent available on this site is amazing, and the knowledge being offered to new and/or inexperienced craftspeople is wonderful. For me, I am just an old bench jockey using the skills that I learned over a lifetime, and just enjoy reading other people’s issues and problems.

Do you see the value in expanding the Ganokskin skill base? Certainly!

How do you suggest this be accomplished? I believe you are on the right track with the training videos. I still have a drawer full of old VHS training tapes from years ago. No better way to learn than watching an expert perform the process, and then watch it five more times until you can do the same work in the same manor.

33

Hi,
So to Mary Dunker,Rick CoplandGerald Livings andJon Fuja,
Wow.
Thank you all for sharing your perspectives and the evolution you have all experienced, as well as your dreams.
Each of you add to our whole, sharing family history, the state of your heart, head or body and how that affects you, and most importantly, your passion for our craft.
It all adds up and is deeply appreciated.
And while I thank you for the accolades, please remember, I have sore fingers, tired eyes and a wealth of friends to help on getting through the day. Just dream big…
Thanks, Jim

1 Like
34

Jim,

Coming from you that is high praise and I’m very complimented.

Thanks!

Rick Copeland
Rocky Mountain Wonders

35
  1. How long have you been at the bench?

2.5 years, minus several months in 2015, so almost 2 years.

  1. Do you make your living doing bench work?

No; I am a hobbyist that has sold a few pieces, some of my own design, a few pieces of custom work at the direction of clients.

  1. Do you work for a retail jeweler?

No.

5 . Do you work for yourself?

Yes, but in environmental consulting. I’m a jack-of-all-trades scientist.

  1. Do you do both? ( outside / side work)?

N/A

  1. How did you start your training?

I took courses offered by the local park district, sponsored by a local lapidary club; a lapidary course and a silversmithing course. I signed up for the second silversmithing course and dropped out half way through because the instructors told me “you can’t do it that way” and I was already “doing it” in my basement.

  1. How do you continue your training?

Online, and through materials purchased online; books and videos and printed tutorials, such as those by Hans Meevis. I live in a very large metropolitan area with (surprisingly) very little educational offerings. It is either the basic lapidary club offerings, or many thousands for jewelry school; nothing in between. I had to go a state away for a week to take a decent blacksmithing course that didn’t cost me a fortune, to learn more about how metal moves.

9 Do you see yourself as a designer?

Yes. I am definitely a 3D designer/builder, in various ways. I should have pursued it further as a career but was more concerned about supporting myself when I made choices (midstream) in education and career.

  1. Do you see yourself as having a viable and profitable future in this business?

I don’t know. I aspire to it, though. I do not expect to get rich, but it would be so wonderful to have an income from it, doing something I love. I am thrilled when I actually sell a piece rather than give it away.

  1. What skill sets will improve your financial future?

Knowledge of advanced fabrication techniques. I need help but other than online sources, which are really very good, I don’t know where to go. Week long private or semi-private training would be ideal.

  1. Who sets standards to whom you aspire?

There are various experts who generously share information… here on Ganoskin, on YouTube, on their own web sites, some free and some for very fair, generous prices. It is not difficult to determine who those people are.

Ultimately, I set my own standards. What do I want to make----and how do I do that? Where can I find that information?

36
  1. How long have I been at the bench…(only a few days!)…how about 20,000 days, or 55 YEARS!
  2. Made most of my wages from Diamond Setting?..YES!
  3. Do, or did I work for any retailer…NO! Many of my clients were wholesalers or factories!
  4. Do, did I work for myself? Always a sub-contractor!
  5. Do I do both? (Repeated answer!) Mostly for wholesalers or factories!
  6. How did I start my training? (Fantastic question). I started my 9-year apprenticeship at the ripe old age of 18 and after that at the same jewellery company in Toronto, Canada. I spent another 5 years more refining my skills. During that period, I noticed I had a flair of using gravers in “Bright-Cutting & Bead Setting!”.
  7. Am I a designer? To a point, but with my 55 years in this trade, I see what is required in designing jewellery. I suppose that after I was given the “Guinness World Record” for “Creating the Worlds Most Valuable Poker-Chip!” in May. 2013. You might say Diamond Setting has helped me create this ‘little bauble’, I just let my mind & brain do the rest!!!.
  8. Do I see any viable, or profitable future in this craft…YES!!! I have been teaching for the past 16 years, making video’s, making my own line of jewellery for internet-sales. The possibilities are endless, you are only limited by the barriers you put upon yourselves!! Even being a happy Dyslexic, I put that (dis)ability to 100% positive use, I see jewellery in a different light
  9. Who set the standards to whom I aspire! I had two fantastic men who guided me through my formative years. The first was my Father, who had the great knowledge of “Industrial Diamonds” in both London, England & Toronto. he told me to learn a trade. The second, was my setting teacher…Stan Levine. (I still feel both of them are with me) My Dad was a Diamond Polisher in both Belgium & London. You might say without them, I have no idea where I would be now!
    Ganoksin was waiting to happen, with Seth at the ‘helm’, it will go forward at great-neck speed which no one has seen before…But our Hanuman, had the foresight in getting it off the ground’!
    Where will Ganoksin go from here? There are so many gifted artisans on-line, these folks of ‘both genders’ can only answer that question! But I only wish there are more video’s being made, as this will be the legacy of ‘us’ for so many generations to come. I have about 65 video’s in my archives, (hopefully many more to come). Hoping this hasn’t been too tiring to read.:>) "gerrylewy18@gmail.com"
37

Hi Lisa and Gerry.
Thank you so much for adding each of your “selves” to our community.
The last two posts are sort of the yin /yang of the jewelry world we see emerging as people contribute both their jewelry, and humanity to this poll (of sorts).
Gerry, with the sheer number of hours invested, you’ve paid your dues many times over and give back with your educational work so graciously.
Lisa, your willingness to jump in with enthusiasm and passion demonstrate the elements that inspire others’ to do the same.
Great work, both of you and , again,
Thank you.
Jim

38

I could have written many more paragraphs, but to brag about myself is boring…:wink: What we are doing on Orchid is fantastic! What we are leaving for the next generations is so much better than a few words on a cemetery plaque. I’ve written well in excess of 300 pages of diamond setting notes & it’s all for the asking! Just show me another website where this is possible, except on Orchid!..:wink:
I paid to join a jewellery site, but the politics & subtle expletive innuendo’s make it so difficult to learn. I’m now having second thoughts about now continuing after my year-end membership is finished.
One retail-owner even lambasted me for even mentioning that I teach setting. Everything here IS welcomed.

Gerry! from my mobile-phone!

1 Like
39

Having only just joined Ganoskin, replying to this poll is an opportune way to introduce myself, as well as to begin familiarizing myself with the community. So, thank you.

  1. Cumulatively, 2-3 years – I took a year away to move from Silicon Valley to Santa Fe.

  2. No, I do this mostly for the enjoyment and satisfaction of making things. I’ve sold a few pieces, and made a few for donations to help support a local not-for-profit organization.

  3. No.

  4. There is no number four.

  5. Yes.

  6. I was a software developer/entrepreneur for years. I still do a little, but I guess that’s my side job now. :^)

  7. Trial and error, and then reading up on how to do what I originally set out to accomplish. Initially, this was forming, soldering, and simple casting.

  8. Practice and additional reading. I found that setting myself tasks from Alan Revere’s “Professional Jewelry Making,” as well as various tutorials helps me focus on learning essential skills.

  9. Absolutely. Everything I make is my own design. I carry my Moleskine design book and a sharp pencil with me most everywhere I go.

  10. Yes, I think so, but of course profitable and viable is different from person to person. For me, at a minimum, I’d like to be able to sell enough jewelry to pay for my equipment and supplies.

  11. I don’t know yet. There’s still so much to learn.

  12. Yikes. I see jewelry so differently now. I look not just at the design, but at the craftsmanship, the joints in metal pieces, the texture of finishing, the clever execution of design. So, in response to the actual question, every professional jeweler whose work I admire.

As for forwarding my skills, there’s nothing like being part of a community of experts, and experimenters, and doers for asking specific questions, and overcoming troubling obstacles.

Thanks again. Great poll. I’ve enjoyed reading others’ responses as well as making myself examine these questions and my own answers.

40

Hi Alec.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and approach to making and expanding your skills in jewelry making. Being in the unknown, and recognizing it, really opens up doors to experience and try (and , often invent) new techniques.
Have fun, make a lot of stuff.
Thanks again for doing the poll.
Jim