Well, it seems everyone is getting on the band wagon, so I might as
well join in too.
I just got my (K)new concept saw and believe me, it is the first time
in years (and I mean literally in years) that I have been able to saw
from Pt A to Pt B without having to adjust the tilt of the saw -
amazing - not only that but I cut curves, waves, sharp angles - all
with no problems! Gee, I was amazed. I had begun to think I needed
to take a basic course in “sawing” but now I know it was that I
needed the (K)new concept saw.
Thanks Lee for an incredible addition (replacement) to our most
basic tools - you really did re-invent the “egg”.
Can anyone tell me if these Knew Concept saw frames will be available
in the UK or are they only available to order direct from the maker
in the USA. I phoned my usual tool supplier, Cookson and asked if
they stocked the saw frames, they didn’t know what I was talking
about so I phoned James Miller to ask his advice and he told me he
got his frames posted from the USA.
Can anyone tell me if these Knew Concept saw frames will be
available in the UK
Hi Jackie, I bought one, it took just over a week to come, I like
it, it is very light. Paypal makes it easy.
The postage was $27.00 signed for, I have been showing it to other
jewellers I know and we will see if buying several does not increase
the postage too much.
I got a 3" frame and would have liked a 4" one (never happy!) but I
think since they are so light that a 5" will be OK. I am a bit of a
tool junkie, and reckon that atool you use every day is worth aiming
for the best. The only thing I am a bit apprehensive about are the
blade clamps, I had some like that on a very light Swiss saw and
found that they would slip (with fine blades) when they got worn
after about six months, time will tell. Perhaps a hardened and
serrated insert might do the trick.
The bowl is beautiful. One question about the saw- is it the saw
that helped with no broken blades or your expertise in sawing?
Karen, I must admit that I break many hundreds of saw blades,
especially when piercing deep shaped items. One of the most
difficult items that I am asked to pierce are sugar caster tops,
these silver caster tops are 3 inch tall shaped silver spinnings
with only a 1.5 inch diameter at the open end. So when piercing, the
saw blade has to go through both sides of the cone while piercing. I
can tell you that trying to cut the design on one side, without
damaging the other side is a bit tricky, you have to perfect a
method that means the blade teeth are cutting out the design on the
one side, while the back of the blade rubs against the metal on the
other side. Think about piercing a design on a 1.5 inch diameter
tube and you will understand the difficulty. Piercing this type of
work breaks many blades.
The photo attached shows a sample of what I am talking about. It is
a simple design caster top, a design that is imperfect as it was
drawn to match an antique design.
you have to perfect a method that means the blade teeth are cutting
out the design on the one side, while the back of the blade rubs
against the metal on the other side.
The firm I work for made, for a number of years, several cast
semi-filligree rings (lots of openings and lines, but thicker and
sturdier than true filligree, so I call it “semi”. But the openings
were still narrow tight areas). Even with careful attention to good
wax models, the castings still usually needed a fair bit of cleaning
up, and the only real way to do that was with a saw, given the size
and angles of the openings. So I got pretty good at doing this same
sort of thing. The size of a band ring makes it easier, of course,
than those sugar casters, but it’s still a fuss. Sometimes I’d cheat
by sanding off the teeth on the lower half of the sawblade. That gave
a fair section of blade which could run around through the underside
holes with no danger of cutting, so I could fully concentrate on what
the top cutting part of the blade was doing and not worry about the
underside so long as I was using only short strokes with the saw. But
while this protects those holes on the underside from unwanted cuts,
it still doesn’t prevent breaking blades…
I got a 3" frame and would have liked a 4" one (never happy!) but
I think since they are so light that a 5" will be OK.
I got the 5", and it is lighter than my old 3" - so you will love it!
The only problem I have with it is when I stick my face too close and
bonk myself with the saw…not the saw’s fault! I love it - just did
a small pierced heart today with the 5" just because that is the only
(K)new saw I have… worked a treat!
The only thing I am a bit apprehensive about are the blade clamps…
The screw and the anvil are both heat treated steel (Grade 8).
Everything wears, and to overcome that, the screws can be removed and
scuffed lightly on fine abrasive cloth and re-installed.
Simply by rotating the anvil screw 1/8 of a turn will re-orient the
vertical “slick spot” that constant blade clamping develops.
Thank you, James Miller, for showing us your pierced work. It is so
interesting to see what kinds of forms can successfully be pierced!
Your description of how the sugar top is done made sense to me, so
now I have a new trick to try some time.
I can’t wait to use my new 3" Knew Concepts saw…but I must. I have
to finish an engagement ring order before Valentine’s day, so that
comes first! But as soon as I do that, I plan to dome something up
and do some fancy piercing, probably on a brooch or maybe a brooch/
earrings set. I just KNOW it is going to be really, really fun. I
plan to make a low dome, pierce it, solder it on a back plate, and
darken the silver on the inside. I did one like that many years ago,
and really liked it, but never got around to developing the idea
further than that one piece. Now is the time! (Now is always the
time.)
I wonder if it would be possible to have sawblades made for such work
with teeth only at the top 1 to 1 1/2 inches or so and the rest of
the length smooth. Or to remove the teeth from the lower portion of
the 5" blade, effectively making a “safe” edge as for files. Of
course this would need to be done uniformly and without changing the
temper of the blade.
Or to remove the teeth from the lower portion of the 5" blade,
effectively making a "safe" edge as for files.
Pam, mount the blade in the frame, and use a moore’s sanding disk (I
use the adalox fine disks for this) to remove the teeth where
desired. You don’t have to get it all. Once you’ve taken the sharp
points off the teeth, they’re not doing much cutting any more. Try
it. Pretty easy to do, which is good, because the blades don’t last
all that long doing this. But it works well enough if you need. I’m
usually using 3/0 blades for this. You can do this to finer blades
than that, but it’s harder to do, and the blades more fragile, the
finer the blade size.
What a great idea! Just received mine (a 5"). Looking at it and
going over the directions for installing the blades—it makes so
much sense. Why someone didn’t do this before, I do not know.
Lee Marshall has invented a terrific saw! Mine arrived this week (an
extra $17.86 in taxes and brokerage fees) and tonight I pierced a
nice Celtic knot heart. What a joy this saw is to use. It seems to
follow the line without my having to concentrate! Just look at where
you want to saw and the blade follows obediently. And the best thing
is that I also ordered one for a friend who is going though a rough
spot. She is going to love this saw - and I get to introduce her to
her new favourite tool! The only thing is - saw blade manufacturers
may object to how long a dozen blades can last…
mine arrived this morning. the photos and descriptions i’d seen gave
an impression of a well built, ‘jewelry for jewelry makers’ tool. my
eyes have let me down.
pros:
it is amazingly light.
it has rigidity.
and if my preliminary usage is any indication, this saw may just
'make saw blade makers a bit annoyed'...more testing in that
regard.
cons:
it's not 'pretty'...the one i have, looks "inexpensively" made.
glue oozing out of the handle.
a burr or two.
the anodised finish looks temporary and unimpressive.
i'm guessing they are cut from sheet goods, sharp edges all
around and not uniformly finished.
plastic parts...
i hope that function will be elemental over form with this tool.
Most posts on this saw have been in relation to it’s performance
which have been outstanding so I son’t feel the need to comment
there. It has been said. I would like to comment on the outstanding
Customer Servise Lee has provided. As we here know, the response was
well beyond his expectations and he was working hard to keep up with
the unexpected demand. He posted a notice here he was running behind
so I waited a couple of weeks before asking approximately when I
could expect mine. He wrote back the same day (a Friday) and advised
it would be posted the first of the next week and it was! When I
received a 2nd one several days later, I realized that he is doing
his utmost to get these out to all who are waiting even at his own
expense. When I contacted and advised the about the duplicate
shipping, he again responded immediately and we resolved the
situation. Too often I have to wait days for responses from vendors
so it was refreshing to get such immediate service as well as a
product I am so very happy with.
Thanks for all your efforts Lee!!!
Best Regards, Ann
I’ve read all these posts with interest and would like to know when
this product will be available in the UK? I’ve placed many orders for
things from the US and get really stung with import tax. There’s a
huge market for these things in the UK.
I can echo the sentiments about this saw cutting straight, but I can
also echo Ann Spanos’ comments about customer service. My initial
experience left me pulling my hair out and returning to my old saw
to finish a piercing job. I sent an email to Lee, and he wrote back
the same day solving my problem and helping get the saw to working
order. That was the fastest customer service I have ever gotten
through email.
I have been using one of Lee Marshall’s knew concepts saws (3") for a
while now. I really like the lightness and balance but am having a
lot of trouble with blade breakage. I typically use sizes 3/0 and 4/0
blades and experience the problems, not while piercing sheet, but
while cutting rods, bars and ring shanks of sterling (typically 1.5 -
2.5 mm thick). My old style saws never gave me this trouble. I rather
suspect that I may be over-tightening the blades and that any
torsional stress over the thickness of the cut due to misalignment
may be the cause of the breakages. Has anybody else experienced this,
or are there any guidelines for the amount of tension to apply ?
I'm having that problem too, and I think I've been overtightening
it too. I have a bunch of blades now with the very tips broken off.
This type of frame is best when used with 2/0 and larger. For smaller
blades, conventional frame still rules. If this is the only frame you
have, try annealing tips of blades. It is very easy. Just use
cigarette lighter. It is enough to bring tip of the blade to red heat
in just few seconds. Anneal both tips just before inserting the blade.
