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20K Prong repair help needed


#1

Hi Friends

A ring I made for a customer last summer needs repair, but I am out
of the country (Canada) until next May. I hate to make her wait that
long. She lives mid-way between Toronto and Ottawa. Maybe one of you
lives near enough her to make doing the job feasible?

The problem is that one of the prongs holding a rectangular ruby has
broken off and is gone. The ring is 20k gold. I think the way to go
may be to fabricate a new prong, matching the existing ones, and
laser it in place, to avoid having to remove the stone. (I’m afraid
that bending the prongs back and forth may weaken them) Does that
sounds right? I’ll attach a few photos to show you what the ring
looks like. Normally, I use bezel settings, rather than prongs
because of the softness of my 20k gold.



Opinions on this would be welcome.

If anyone can help, please contact me directly to discuss the job.
Thank you.

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#2

Leslie- I would remove the stone and all of the remaining prongs and
re prong the ring. Preferably with 18kt yellow or platinum. 20kt gold
is a bit too soft for prongs. Also it appears from the photos that
you have over cut the seat on the prongs. In harder metals the rule
is never cut more than 40-50%. If you really want 20kt prongs do not
cut the seat for the stone more than say 1/3rd of the thickness of
the prongs.

Have fun and make lots of jewelry.

Jo Haemer
timothywgreen.com


#3

Replacing the prong completely with new 20K wire looks like your
best option.

I would suggest completely filing the prong away, all the way to the
bottom of the setting, then laying in a new replacement wire in 20K,
laser welding in place. This way you will not have any joint within
the prong.

When I do this type of repair, I prepare the new wire, leaving it
longer on both ends, so I can hold the new seat in place while
welding the bottom of the wire. I then finish welding, and trim the
prong top and bottomto match.

I am doing a similar repair today on a two tone 18K Fancy Yellow
Diamond ring that has had two prongs crack at the base of the
setting (not one of ourrings, but one I have been asked to repair),
although in this case I have removed the stone, cut off all 4 prongs
and am in the process of drilling the base of the setting so that I
can weld in all new 18K yellow wire for the replacement prongs.

Not being in Canada I am sure someone closer can help you, but I can
do this if you can not find someone more convenient.

Good luck.
Jim Newton