3) Use a thin piece of wire around the inside the bezel so that
stone's edges sit on the wire. Drawback: might be able to see the
wire through the stone.
Hi Jason, This might be your best bet. Most likely the optics of the
curvture of the cab will prevent the supporting ring from being seen.
You can make it out of square wire (sizing stock?), and chamfer a
bevel inward on the top. This will help alleviate the pressure point
on the inner square corner where it makes contact with the curvature
on the bottom of the cab.
Another alternative, if you’re not committed to totally fabricating
the rings, is to apply wax to the back of the stone to provide the
proper seat, and cast the seat. Two concerns about the emerald,
though: be careful of heat if you’re applying melted wax (use
sheet?), and a cast white gold bezel will be tough to set… and
emerald is fragile. A high carat yellow gold bezel would be less
dangerous, even if the backing plate is white gold.
22k white will appear yellower than 18k because there is a higher
percentage gold content and less alloying metal to “dilute” it.
Hope this helps!
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans’ Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)