Jim,
Choose a hart bur just small enough to clear the other side of the channel
once you have started your seat. To start the seat slightly tip your handpeice
so that the bur is going into the first side at a slight angle. Once you have
started the seat bring the handpaice to a straight position but keep an eye on
the other channel. Once you can cut the seat without touching the other
channel do so, then simply move across to the other side and proceed to cut
that channel. You will find that tipping the stone into one side and slighlty
pushing it (it should, at this point sit realtivley easy into the other side.)
works quite nicely… Anyway in a more simple answer to your question, yes use
a slightly smaller bur, yes do one side at a time. No I don’t damage the top
of either channel… And yes to finally tighten the stones I do use a
hammer-peice. But in regards G. Gilmore I never have a problem slpping off the
channel busting the stones. With practice comes patience my freind…
Good luck and keep the questions coming, I love channel setting, heck I
love setting of all types for that matter…
MarcFrom: owner-orchid@proteus.imagiware.com on behalf of Jim Chambers
Sent: Monday, October 21, 1996 12:18 PM
To: orchid@ganoksin.com
Subject: RE: (round stone) channel -setting mysteries
Marc,
Interested in the Hart Bur cutting!!! Using a graver, you would cut the seat
on each side, one at a time… When you use the hart bur, do you select a bur
that is small enough to do “ONE” side at a time?? If not, doesn’t the bur
distroy the top edge of the channel … giving the appearance of () around
the stone?? Or is this the part of the process that you are using the hammer
on to restore the channel edge??
Jim
At 08:58 PM 10/20/96 UT, you wrote:
Laurence,
About your quetion on Channel setting rounds… I have to say that some of
the responses have been very interesting in that I would recomend STRONGLY
not
to follow some of them… Channel setting stones is quite easy actually…
First
thing you need to do is set up the stones placing them on top of th echannel
to check for correct placement… When you do this it might be a good idea to
take a peice of bees wax and cover the top of the channel so the stones don’t
slip off the peice when you lay them out… The next thing you want to do is,
make sure that the girlde of the stone hangs over the top of the chanel.( the
stones should be larger than the channel itself by about .5mm on each side of
the channel). Now that you have laid out the stones and have checked to be
sure that your stones fit properly, you can begin to cut the seats for your
stones. It is VERY important to cut an individual seat fcor each stone. DO
NOT
cut one continuous seat straight across… Use a hart bur to cut the seats.
This is the fun part. Remember now that each stone is slightly bigger than
the
channel. You want to cut the seat just deap enough so that you can tilt the
stone in and it should slide down the inside of the channel finally resting
in
the oppposite seat. DO NOT over cut the seat. It is very important that you
don’t over cut because you will drive yourself crazy getting them to sit
still
while you tighten them. Now that you have succesfully seated your first
stone… It is time to tighten it… DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT solder them in,
nor
do you “squeeze” in on the sides of the channel. If all things are done
correctly (that is the seat being cut) all you should have to tighten the
stone is take a punch (take a broken burr or something and sand the end
flat),
and place it on the channel above the seats and gently tap the top of the
punch with your rivetting hammer, do the same to the other side. You may have
to do this several times to tighten the stone but this is the proper way to
do
so. It is the same as using a Swiss hammer peice that may cost over $150
bucks. Now that the first stone is in place and tightened sufficiently, cut
the seat for the next stone. Do the exact same thing you have just done to
the
first. The only thing you need to do is make sure you line up the seats with
the first stone. Also it is VERY important to make sure that the girdles of
the stones DO NOT TOUCH. If the stones are rubbing up against each other
there
is a good chance you will break them when you tighten them. So after you have
set all of your stones go back and make sure they are all tight. If they
aen’t
simply take the puch that you made and tap the channel down again. Like I
said
before, you will probably have to use the puch alot to make sure they are
tight. But I have to stress, never use solder to tighten them, that is not
hte
proper way to do things and it makes for bad clean up after the job is
finished…And also do not squeeze the sides of the channel in , You may
crush
the channel all together or you may break a stone… It is just not a good
idea.
I hope I helped you out…
Marc Williams
tdwgold@msn.com
From: owner-orchid@proteus.imagiware.com on behalf of Laurence Veska
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 1996 2:45 PM
To: Orchid
Subject: (round stone) channel -setting mysteries
==
Hi everyone,
First of all, a brief introduction as this is my first question posted =
on this excellent forum, although I have followed some really informative=
threads over the last few weeks. I am keen to learn a good variety of =
jewellery-making techniques, my particular interests seem to revolve arou=
nd stone-setting techniques [my day job is a geologist, and I am currentl=
y studying for my gemmology diploma… exams tomorrow!..). I have only bee=
n making (silver) jewellery for about two years, but my previous job maki=
ng miniature in-the-ear hearing aids (under the microscope) including mou=
lding the shells etc. involved a lot of the same tools and motor-skills =
I am now using in jewellery! I hope to experiment with gold in the near =
future, and also learn more about spin-casting which I am very new to. =
(ps:Thanks Dave (CrystalGuy) Stephens for your help so far!).
To get to the point (finally), how do you get them little sucker round =
(brilliant) stones to stay in channel mounts in rings etc.?? I haven’t =
attempted this method yet because I can’t understand the basic principle.=
I gather each stone has its own seat to keep it steady, but how are they=
secured? Is it magic? Is it superglue? Is it crystal power? (no disrespe=
ct intended Dave!) Most books I can find here in Tasmania (Australia) onl=
y mention this method briefly with one or two confusing pictures,
thanks,
Laurence Veska.
P.S: Are there any Tasmanian jewellers on Orchid who could demonstrate =
it sometime?? (beg, beg)!
orchid@ganoksin.com
procedures
orchid@ganoksin.com
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